Monday, June 29, 2009

An evening for the kids...

Lyddie and Ladd were both on the receiving end of new climbing shoes, and were eager to try them out on the granite.

Ladd (the Knee-man) on the warm-up slab

Lyddie on a super quality pebble

"You call that a spot?"
"I got you Sis, ya-send-go!"

"Don't know what you were whining about, this problem is casual."

Real nice (and little) Spine-arete

On the technical reach to the hidden handhold...

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Casual Sunday

A trip to the Northern Bourbons with Tom, Spencer and myself. Kudos to the hangover crew for hangin' in there.

Spencer on "DB's Allstars".

Tom floating "Fish Hook Crack".

Sequence of Tom on Second Ascent of "THE Knob Arete".

A good tour for Spencer, and some new climbs for Tom on this chill day.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Sweet Caroline

An afternoon Father's Day solo jaunt had me exploring the road to Camp Caroline. Near the end, above the road, were the pebbles that I hoped was there. Less of a "zone", and more of a local pleasure stash, these boulders were high-quality with flat, soft landing zones--perfect for the wife and kids. Now we just have to go up there and "family" climb on them.

Passing an old chimney along the way.

The goods...

Way cool fledspar? crystal lining the splits in this rock.

Balanced egg-rock

...must go back:-)

Friday, June 19, 2009

A day in the Deviants

Technically part of the Batholith, these unique pebbles have geologic characteristics unlike anywhere else around. Easy to access and practically roadside, the Deviants are stones that I will return to again and again...

Lyddie giving some scale to a pebble.

Two shots of me bouldering, from Lyddie's diminutive perspective:

Same boulder, better view

Lyddie pondering the top-out...

One of the bigger, harder blocs

Me on the lower half of the left-side of the previous formation. photo by Lyddie

I can't wait to go back with "real" spotters--anyone want to go?

Monday, June 15, 2009

Back to the Single Barrels

Saturday brought me back to the Single Barrel Boulders via a slightly different path. Driving a bit further on the Northern Bourbons spur road brings you above the Single Barrels, which is nice because it cuts a bit of walking out. Travis joined me to explore the orange stone amongst the kinnikinnick...

Warm up


Thin crack (wet top out)


Friday, June 12, 2009

Ladd gets after it.

No coaxing was needed for this one--I just asked if he wanted to give it a go, and he said "Sure!"


And surely, he did.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Offwidth Bouldering Overview

There have been a number of offwidth boulder problems established in the last couple of years out here in the Boulder Batholith. This is a bit of an overview, working up by relative difficulty, though I'm sure the order is debatable.

-5.6 Crack

This is a taller warm-up in the rear of the Brickyard, pretty straight forward.


A lowball kick through moderate in the East Tracks. Good intro to getting the feet over the head.

-Topless Pillow Fight

A taller moderate north of the Brickyard.


Wide to a slight bulge, out in the Northern Bourbons.

-Unknown Fate

Just above the Hidden Hall, which is also the entrance leading up to the Brickyard

-Big Slick

A committing layback in the Benchlands

-Captain Trips

An interesting a-frame invert problem in the Lower Moose Creek area


Another a-frame, but this one is in the Northern Bourbons


Inverted dihedral problem out in the Anomalies, starts inverted, though a harder start could be established a bit further in...

-Kung Fu Kick Through

This is a precision kick through located in the East Tracks. Watch your head!

-Eastern Aframe

Low to the ground but hard. Hard invert, swing out to dimple(pictured), to a nasty sit up/mantel. East Tracks

-Western Aframe

Just west of the Eastern Aframe @ East Tracks.

-Hotdog in the Hallway

Out in the Druthers lies this awkward, but quality problem

-Fruh's Wide

Committing, awkward and unrepeated. The Brickyard

-Big Shoe Roof

Out near the Aspens, this problem utilizes baggy heel-toe jams, and alot of confidence to get to the lip


Out in the Benchlands is this ~20 foot roof crack. Hands to pinch to off width/squeeze flair.

-Brickyard Cave
-Inside Straight
-Jackie Brown's Fart Locker