Bouldering the Backwaters- Montana Bouldering

Last of the Lot

2012-01-28T18:07:00.000-08:00

35 tries on this problem in an hour and a half--in 32< degree temps !

He wants to return tomorrow fresh to blast through it :-)

One more down, One to go...

2012-01-26T07:26:00.000-08:00

Ladd hits the right moves for his dozenth try on this cruxy start problem.

The last problem of the trifecta, and prolly the most thuggish and difficult...

Ladd susses the opening moves...

Never give up--the "Atlantis Crack" falls

2012-01-24T18:55:00.000-08:00

Ladd gets motivated on an overcast January afternoon to send his hardest crack problem/project to date...

Right on, son--two more (out of 3) to go to get the gold ring :-)

Trailers, Isos, Cobbles and the 13-14s

2012-01-15T15:17:00.000-08:00

Been slacking a bit on posting, but not due to lack of climbing and exploring. Things have been exceptionally dry here in the Boulder Batholith lately and very decent temps.

Somewhere in the trailers...Photo:Aaron Burford

Getting beat up on the Sloper-toss Project, Trailers....Photo:Aaron Burford

Thin cracks, Isolated Boulders...Photo: A. Whitmore

Fruh on a burl thin crack project, Isolated Boulders

The Brotherman out on a classic slab in the Cobbles

Odenbeck headed up the Chopping Block, 13-14 Boulders

The Tall Tale of John Titor, Isolated Boulders...Photo: A. Whitmore

Video and more shots coming soon. Need to do a media round-up!

Cheers!

Year's end parting shot

2011-12-31T21:19:00.000-08:00

Here's to the last 364 days of 2011 in the Boulder Batholith--friends, visitors, regulars, and locals ventured out past where others stopped and found new pebbles to wrassle and cracks to crush. Aside from what I find and pass along, I can offer only this; a photo with light and location that was to my (and now yours) enjoyment 1111!!!!

Benchlands

2011-12-27T12:38:00.000-08:00

Met up with Odenbeck and headed out to the Benchlands yesterday. A great tour and walkabout ensued; with a number of new and classic problems being climbed and lots of new possibilities discovered.

Here's a couple of new ones from yesterday.

Cheers!

Come out and Play

2011-12-26T06:47:00.000-08:00

2011 is trying to become a memory, but before that happens, the Mojede 4 would like to wish everyone Happy Climbing for the holidays--bust out the new X-mas goodies before nasty ol' January comes and brings the white with it...

Junior with his new Mammuts :-)

Heart Of Darkness

2011-12-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

A very nice December for bouldering out in the Boulder Batholith. The weather has been very pleasant and it was nice to see new faces in the Trailer Boulders. Always fun to have a new eye on things, as well as added psyche.

I've been out frequently, mostly to the trailers but also a bit of exploring. I got out midweek with the brotherman and explored a portion of Big Pipestone creek. Unfortunately the rock didn't pan out and my dog got his paw stuck in a hunting trap. Yes that's right, keep an eye out for traps. Thankfully Bowie is ok. First time I've run into that out there...We were exploring a pretty remote area though...

In better news the stand start of the smooth overhang, now known as Heart of Darkness, was sent in quick order by Levi (see video). A great problem to be sure...with a desperate sit still waiting to be linked. Molly Rennie also crushed out the project sds on the Misty Boulder, an obvious problem tried by just about everyone who's been to the trailers the last 2 seasons...the Tin Can area is also seeing a lot of action the last couple weeks, and hopefully will continue to see development. Over 150 established problems in the trailers, with many more to do...

Cheers!

Desert December and the Trailer Boulders

2011-12-21T22:22:00.000-08:00

A gathering of East meets West in the Middle took place over a few hours in the Trailer Boulders of the 'Lith--Missoula, Bozeman, and Butte showed up in the autumn-like temps to pull pebbles. On board were: TK, Clay, Luke, Derek, Ron, Podenbeck, (and 2 others who names escape me) from the 'Zone; while Levi, Brandon, Molly represented the 'Zoo--Lyddie, Ladd, and myself made an appearance as the locals :-)

One of many outings in the Batholith joining different tribes of Montana climbers--sans FIRE !

Hutch

Humbug Spire Exploration

2011-12-14T12:27:00.001-08:00

Starting from the Wedge proper trailhead and arcing towards it by skirting a private inholding and following a main grouping of spires Eastward towards the Wedge--I believe the large formation to be "The Hand" on the BLM map at the TH.

More McClusky Mountain

2011-12-12T18:11:00.000-08:00

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves for now :-)

The photos are sequenced from looker's left (North end) to right (South end) of Crag.

Enjoy !

MMM teaser

2011-12-11T21:02:00.000-08:00

This one was just TOO good to post with others--tricky looking finish via the directissima :-)

McClusky Mountain Magic

2011-12-11T16:02:00.000-08:00

The most frequent question that I am asked about the Batholith is : Have you ever been to the crag on the mountain above Spire Rock?

My answer usually tells of a guy I knew that made the hike up there and had nothing to report....

...Merry Christmas, everybody, for this post and the following contain the best images of a hike that I had up there earlier this week--Enjoy!

...more to follow

Afternoon Exploration

2011-12-07T10:27:00.001-08:00

A few pics from the brotherman...out on a midweek exploration mission...wish I could been out there too...hopefully I can remedy that soon....

Quite the squeeze roof!

Cheers!

Highlife Arete

2011-12-05T13:13:00.001-08:00

A shot from just before Tday...Out exploring the Upper Isolated Boulders...Pic and FA by Awhit.

Cheers!

Plastic, Beer, and more

2011-12-02T10:56:00.001-08:00

Here's a few from a Tuesday evening session at the Lazy V hosted by Clay.

Clay training for the Batholith....

Fruh getting silly

nice pants

There's always going to be someone stronger, have fun and stop taking climbing so seriously. Seriously.

Another great session at the best bouldering cave in the valley. Like an over 21 show for plastic pulling heathens. Super anti-batholith style, and that's kinda nice.

Get some,

AWhit

Late November in the Trailers

2011-11-28T08:07:00.001-08:00

Yesterday I headed out with T-willy to the Trailers for a bit of a circuit. The day was calm and sunny, it was nice to be climbing in a tshirt again. As of yesterday the Desert was dry and the Trailers are mostly dry with a light dusting in places.

Blood Feather, Dagmar's Boulder

Cobble Problem, Teardrop Boulder

We ended up climbing around 15 problems, though I only dug the camera out twice. All and all a nice day moving over warm stone.

Sighting a classic--the Lowliner

2011-11-18T07:51:00.000-08:00

http://tincantourists.com/wiki/doku.php?id=aristocrat

A Batholith "Standard" for overnight/long-term staying in the Batholith. Tom's luck and research landed a nice vintage '67 made by Aristocrat--Shasta made a version as well during the mid-'60's though the sales (and quality?) were less...

These units were garageable with interchangeable steel rims--uber cool :-)

Fall Desert Tracks

2011-11-06T19:49:00.000-08:00

Getting out for a few moments with Ladd to test his new replacement shoes...

Final pic/climb was only send--must go back...

The Narwhal

2011-11-02T06:07:00.000-07:00

Headed out on Saturday with Odenbeck to meet up with Hutch over at Resort Rocks. I've only kicked around there a couple times, so we went on a walk about while waiting for Hutch. Some decent potential out there, and about 8 new problems...including a very nice arete that Patrick nabbed.
We then went on the hunt for the Narwhal, a boulder that Hutch had stumbled upon a few weeks back...a truly wild feature, a large horizontal jutting roof dagger around 15' long. Something pretty unique in the land of slabs. The hike up to it was a bit long, but worth it. Currently it sits in an undeveloped zone, but as usual, the hillside is packed with fins and potential.

Music is from the new the Scott H Biram album...SHB also happens to be rolling through Missoula on the 12th to play the Palace with Joe Buck Yourself....might have to make my way over to the zoo for that one...

Cheers!

Night Moves

2011-10-22T21:52:00.000-07:00

Dick Cilley in the fields at Dusk...

Fantasia bouldering for the young (at heart)

2011-10-21T21:01:00.003-07:00

The Loner

2011-10-20T15:38:00.001-07:00

More from the Trestles

2011-10-18T10:38:00.000-07:00

Rose on "Red Blood Cells"

As mentioned in the previous post Tom, Whitmore, Rose, Zuzana and myself walked down to the trestle on a wet Sunday. Much faith was put into the now infamous Batholith rain shadow. After climbing on some pretty nice warm-up slabs and an interesting overhang feature we dubbed the Choke-asaurus. Zuzana spied a really nice thin face that held a couple killer problems. Here are a couple shots from the aptly named "Red Blood Cells" and some of the other finds from the day...

Creekside Slabs

Whitmore on Choke-asaurus

Tom Zoning in

Zuzana crimping

It has been a great Fall here in Southwestern Montucky. Beautiful weather and great temps continue to bring us to the bountiful Batholith. More sends are surely on the way...

Patrick

Roaming near the Trestle

2011-10-17T09:27:00.000-07:00

The weather didn't look very promising, but the faith in the rain shadow was strong.

The sky was grey, but the rain held off...though things were still a bit wet...Patrick, Whitmore, Zana, Rose and I headed into some new gullies, waiting for things to dry up a bit.

We found some decent possibilities as well as some dry rock and proceeded to warm up...after a while we found ourselves at a very interesting problem...

FA of Choke-asaurus

A fun day to be sure...glad the rain rain held off.

More to come.

Cheers!
Tom

New Skin and Aspens (Revisited)

2011-10-13T09:06:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

We decided to give Bouldering the Backwaters a new skin. Let us know what you think. As an added bonus we thought you might want to check out some photos of those new problems in the Aspens. These cooler sending temps are getting us psyched to get back into the lower areas and finish some of those projects.

Homer on the FA of Swedish Fish

Shoeing up on the bench below Drop Dead

Back in the Aspens

2011-10-07T20:18:00.000-07:00

Great time last weekend out in the Aspens. A beautiful day out there with all the trees turning.

Homer came out and was on a roll! Super fun day.

Fall is here and it should be a great season. Psyched to head back to the lower zones.
Cheers!
TK

The Land of 100 Cracks grows

2011-09-29T07:12:00.000-07:00

Expanding my search of this massive crack zone, I uncovered these awaiting de-flowering...

...and then there's this beautiful crag of smaller proportions that boasts 6 climbable cracks on it :-)

Anyone want to go climb some cracks?

Upping the Ante

2011-09-25T09:05:00.000-07:00

Found a fine-grained chunk of steep for Ladd to sample

The Continental Divide and Trail

2011-09-24T08:21:00.000-07:00

After the completion of the CDT large areas of boulderfields, klettergardens, and ridge/gully systems have opened up for easier access to climbers. The super-cruiser trail on both sides of the Interstate (and connecting with Harding Way) make for fast entry deep into the Batholith--time saved to once, hard to reach areas and zones.

Some photos of pebbles that I thought were the most worthy--these are on the South side of I-90, 30 minutes or less from the car, and amongst tons of others...

The boulder version of Dick Cilley's "Testicle Festival "

Go get 'em while they're hot... (well, cooling down actually)

West Rosebud Trail Siders

2011-09-21T17:42:00.000-07:00

My buddy Brandon and I made an attempt at Granite Peak last weekend--It was dry for the 3 miles to Mystic Lake (which would make the best trail back country boulder trip), but drizzle turning to light rain changed our plans. Note: Taking pads for a day trip up this trail would make for a good outing.

Some photos of the pebbles along the way--note, the boulder with the "mini-pond" in front of it in the following is further up trail, past Huckleberry and Princess Lakes

Boulder across from the "mini-pond boulder

...snow in the higher elevations forced us down back to the car--overall, a good mission to familiarize myself with the West Rosebud drainage.

Dex's Hunting Camp

2011-09-15T08:21:00.000-07:00

This last weekend, Kevin, Orrin, and I ventured into the Absaroka Range for a bit of bouldering. We rolled out of Livingston into the Paradise...through a ranch and up into the rolling foothills. Kevin visited this area over 10 years ago...a small cirque up a blocked drainage, mainly used for guided hunting. Kevin promised a shorter than usual hike and great potential. I was not disappointed.

We set up camp and began exploring...

and scrambling...

We then shoe-d up and knocked off about a dozen or so problems

We bouldered until evening and headed back to camp...

Crazy thing...this cirque is perched in a way that cell reception is no problem....a bit weird though...

The next morning we set back out to try a few more things and do a bit more exploring before heading down. Orrin found a really nice wall with a couple lines the day before, so we headed out to give it a go. The main line is a slanting seam through a black wall...hard, overhung, aesthetic, and tall...I had to give it some goes...

This will be a great line...though it's beyond me at the moment...

We wandered about, trying a few more lines, and checking out an adjacent ridgeline

Eventually we packed up camp and headed down...scoping a couple on the way out...

Overall it was a great weekend in a new area with tons of potential and rock yet to be explored. Hopefully we will be back soon...Cheers!TK

2nd Annual Butte Bouldering Bash - wrap up

2011-09-01T10:57:00.000-07:00

What a great weekend!!

I want to thank all the competitors, participants, volunteers, and everyone who came out in support of the SMCC.

Most of the volunteers and a handful of psyched bash-goers rolled in on Friday to get everything in order. A large tent city assembled, along with a raised scamp that made its way up the sneaker road. Proud!

Photo by: K. Hutchinson

The evening ensued with folks appearing through-out the night. Drinking and greeting gave way to midnight bouldering, laughs could be heard deep in the woods through the darkness. The people were stoked.

The morning came quickly and I ran about with Kevin, getting the problems marked.

Photo by: K. Hutchinson

Soon folks were registered and heading up the hill for the competitors meeting/welcome

In a flash folks were shoeing up with La Sportiva and Scarpa and venturing onto the boulders to warm up and start explore..

It was great to see so many new faces out in support of the SMCC, and awesome to see people teaming up and working problems together.

Photo by: K. Hutchinson

Before I knew it the BBQ was rolling and folks were filtering in to have some local beef, graciously donated by our friend Meesh. Clay, her and a couple others headed up the afternoon BBQ and did a tremendous job. A huge thank you! We couldn't have pulled this off nearly as smooth without ya'll. Currently I'm missing shots from the BBQ, but hopefully I can get some pics added soon.

Tallest and shortest competitors hangin at the BBQ (Photo by: K. Hutchinson)

The heat of the day was fairly intense, and some people went to seek shade and have a short reprieve from the boulders and sun. Others headed right back to battle.

Photo: G. Hughbanks

Photo by: K. Hutchinson

The day winded down and folks filtered into the lodge for beer, more BBQ and the evening festivities.

We had great support and the bash attendees were stoked on all the gear!

It was a great comp and very friendly.
I was psyched to see Dominick get the FA of the Taco Chip project and subsequently take 1st overall. Nice job!

The winners are as follows:

Youth: Dominick

Men's: Peder

Women's: Inge
Missing a pic at the moment...hoping I can get one soon!

It was also very cool to see Ladd take 3rd in the youth division. Smiles and cheers went up when it was announced. Nice climbing Ladd!

A massive raffle ensued, and folks were grinning ear to ear choosing from a smörgåsbord of stuff. A huge thanks to our supporters and sponsors helping us make this happen.

Huge thanks to:
Organic Climbing Mats
Mystery Ranch Backpacks
La Sportiva
Scarpa
Conrad Anker and The North Face
Smith Optics
Eagle Nest Outfitters
Northern Lights Trading Company
Derek Thomas and DT Designs
Spire Climbing Center
Rock On
DJAJ
Homestake Lodge
Clay Adams and The Circle Lazy V Bar
Patrick and Loni Odenbeck
Jeremy Champion (Jeremy also took the majority of pics for this blog post, Thanks Jer!)
Brandon Smith
Loren Rausch
Pete Tapley
Chris Ebeling
Kevin Hutchinson
and everyone else lending a helpful hand....I'm surely missing someone, and for that I apologize.

We couldn't have done it without you and the SMCC and the Montana climbing community is stronger for it!

The night rounded out with a rockin dance party under the tent featuring DJAJ. SWEET!

Photo by: G. Hughbanks

Overall it was a blast! It was great to see folks coming from all over to support the Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition, raising money for access, making new connections and friends within our climbing community, and strengthening our ties.

Thanks again for coming out, and hopefully we'll see ya again next year. Hopefully sooner!

Cheers!

Tom Kingsbury

Some Comp Pics

2011-08-31T09:39:00.000-07:00

A few unloaded from the camera that didn't land elsewhere...

More here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1552086&tn=60

How to Dyno on a Slab (by Ladd)

2011-08-28T18:12:00.000-07:00

...nuff said, whew!

Bash Trophies!

2011-08-25T19:05:00.001-07:00

Just picked up these trophies from DT Design. Beauty!

See you Saturday!

w0000t!!!

2011-08-23T14:14:00.000-07:00

We're just a few days away from The 2nd Annual Butte Bouldering Bash, and things are looking prime! New problems, new shoes to try out, stellar prizes, a great bbq and some great music!

Hope to see ya there!

Photos by Jeremy Champion

Cheers!

Beauty!

2011-08-20T12:38:00.001-07:00

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

Saucerful

2011-08-15T16:49:00.000-07:00

A few shots from the Northern Bourbons from over the weekend...

Saucerful of Secrets

UFOs Don't Need 4 Wheel Drive

Project Boulder

Cheers!

Saucer city!

2011-08-13T13:41:00.000-07:00

Ufos don't need 4wheel drive

A couple new ones in the Northern Bourbons (Where is that again?)

2011-08-09T09:01:00.000-07:00

As the Butte Bouldering Bash draws closer, I've been spending a bit more time out in the Northern Bourbons.

Sunday was a nice afternoon spent out with Kalah, and our friends Jeremy and Katie, who are just getting into bouldering. We spent the day touring moderates, and watching Jer and Katie find their footing. It's always fun to see the fire coming out in people, discovering the joys of climbing...

We also ran into Chris and Heather(Nice to meet ya'll!), a couple of climbers who came over from Bozeman to check out the bouldering...they had a bit of trouble finding the 'sneaker road' into the Northern Bourbons, which I believe may be a fairly common occurrence...

So to help clear thing up for folks, here are some directions:

Exit 233 off of I-90, take FS road 240 (south of the highway, there will also be a sign saying "Homestake Lodge 3") and drive about three miles to Homestake Lodge.

Just before Homestake Lodge you crest a hill, and at the crest is a faint logging road to your left, that is the road leading to the Northern Bourbons. Most vehicles can make it up the road to the boulders, but it is a very short walk if the road looks too spicy. If you don't take the road, park under the powerlines across from the lodge entrance and walk up the road.

Hope this helps, and I hope to see you all at the fest!

Cheers,
Tom

Huliganjetta!!

2011-08-07T14:06:00.001-07:00

Dolack Painting

2011-07-29T08:56:00.000-07:00

I took a picture of this 1985 Monte Dolack painting in the waiting room of my Butte opthamologist--truly capturing, imho...

Panting Jack

2011-07-19T21:53:00.000-07:00

My 4th send of this problem in 17 years--fortunately, the last two have been fairly recent:-)

If any body wants to give this one a go and give it a "rate"--I'll be more than willing to accomodate...

The 2nd Annual Butte Bouldering Bash + extras

2011-07-11T14:32:00.000-07:00

Spread the word! This August the 27th at Homestake Lodge, The 2nd Annual Butte Bouldering Bash will occur. It was a truly fun event last year for a great cause and we're working hard to make it even better this year! Hope to see you there!

more info: http://www.montanabouldering.com/p/butte-bouldering-bash.html

Went out to the Northern Bourbons yesterday afternoon and had a nice session with Patrick. After a few in the main areas we ventured around "Saucer City" and looked at ~12 different potential roof problems. 3 of which have now been climbed...

Taco Chip Project

The Railien

The Railien

Cheers!

A Proximal 4th

2011-07-06T14:58:00.000-07:00

Years ago the Proximals were a place that I visited a fair bit due to the super slacker access and variety of great problems- both difficult and cruiser. Unfortunately the area got peppered pretty hard by some paintballers about three years ago and it had completely lost its luster for me. I had some time to escape on the 4th and get a quick session in. I decided to revisit the area after my hiatus and was psyched to see that most of the paintball splatter has dissolved. Here is a vid of some of the casuals in the zone.

Aspens

2011-06-27T14:26:00.000-07:00

Spent Saturday afternoon relaxing out in the Aspens with Kalah and Bowie. Spent some time on a couple problems, found some new potentials, and hunted for morels...all in all a successful afternoon.

Northern Bourbons

2011-06-21T16:08:00.000-07:00

A few pics from Saturday...

Rose working on Dim Sum at the On-On Tea Room

Whitmore sending the West Face Crack project on the Modern Deity Boulder... horrid landing!

Ethan gunning for it on Lever Action

A new roof...one of five new ones we found on Saturday...most concentrated roof area yet?!

We also ran into a fella out there who moved from CO to Butte...he's looking to meet up with other Butte climbers...I told him to comment on the blog so we can exchange contact info, hopefully he'll post up!

Cheers!
Tom

2011-06-11T11:59:00.001-07:00

Beauty day at the northern Bourbons!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

June days

2011-06-06T06:44:00.000-07:00

Additional (most actually) photos from Jeremy Champion and Clay Adams.

Cheers!

Against all odds

2011-05-31T13:31:00.000-07:00

Typically when rolling the dice on the weather in the Batholith things will usually end in your favor. For the long holiday weekend the forecast had the odds completely loaded toward wet weather- but I was optimistic. Saturday was beautiful and with a trailer and the family in tow everything was looking like it was going to line up. I added a couple new one’s to the area and worked some projects under blue skies. Yah right 70% chance of rain.

My daughter Brielle- pointing out the foot beta

Lowballing Afternoon Delight

Projecting the proud line on The Gharial

Ectoparasite on the Cookiecutter Shark Boulder

With the intent of photographing some of the boulders that I had missed previously I ambled my way down into Pop up Gully. It had been years since I had been on the North side of the gully. I found it quite embarrassing that I had somehow forgotten this whole area- must have been an extra dose of anandamide flowing through my veins.

Day one down- the gamble against the precipitation was going very well.

Charlie and Mojave getting warm by the fire

After a night around the fire- the rains and snow and sleet came and did not let up the whole weekend. When I saw the updated forecast for Sunday and Monday of 100% chance of precip I knew I was beat. Everything was completely soaked but these are the best days to go out and exploring- and explore I did but I am not to let those goodies out of the box until later…

Life in the trailer

A good start to the season

2011-05-23T20:02:00.000-07:00

Ladd had a pretty good opening day on Sunday with Tom, Kalah and Bowie; Clay, Tom and Rocky--a few pics and vid follow:

Dad (I) gave him the running beta, as his project became more technical; I'll try and refrain in the future...

Low hands and heels...good form on the slab

Sequence of myself snagging the FA of "Shit Start" SDS V2/3 (photos by Ladd)

Great weather and good times out on the stone in the the Lower Isolateds--come on out!!!!1111

Golden Age?

2011-05-03T09:31:00.000-07:00

This Spring has been spectacular in the Batholith. With many new problems going up and more and more boulders being discovered it is hard to dismiss that a sort of Golden Age has begun. Tom and I (mostly Tom), have started compiling a database of problems, at last count it contained over 800 and we are nowhere near complete. Tom's estimation of 1,200 problems in the Batholith is certainly a legitimate estimation.

Conrad on Japanese Depression

As mentioned in a previous post by Tom- a couple of us were able to escape from work on a Weds a few weeks ago for a midday session with Conrad. Conrad was interested in seeing some of what the Batholith stone looked like for some of the local fabricated boulders. Tome led us on a gem tour, starting with the Isos. This was my first tim in the Isos and I was blown away with the quality of rock. The Upper Isolateds reminded me so much of the Camp 4 boulders at one point I could swear I saw the sacred lightning bolt scrawled on the rock above me. Of course when I would turn around and see the snow covered Highlands and Tobacco Roots and not the dusty campground decor and tourons- relief and confusion would overtake me. Needless to say Conrad was impressed. It was a pretty awesome day all around with a couple new one's going up as well.

This Sunday I found myself out in the Trailers once again working some of the harder projects and picking off some low hanging fruit. The day reminded me of how things used to be out in the Batholith- quiet- awkwardly quiet- like Blair Witch project in Junipers. I am not sure why but this strange silence has always motivated me.

Galatea (very sharp and very sweet)

After completely trashing my fingers- count them four split tips- I heard talking in the distance. These had to be ATVers. Who else could be out here? Was there a wreck? Then I saw someone walk briskly through the trees about 50 feet from me. Was she lost? How she did not see or hear me I still have no clue. This was unexpected. I had to know what was up. Turns out a group was warming up at the Snooter and 7 Gram. I knew no one, nor did I recognize any of them.

The Golden Age is on my friends. History teaches us when you find gold or even if you think you have found gold others will follow. I have also heard that climbers and surfers can be some of the most territorial beings on the planet. Just ask Bodhi and Johnny- (watching the video is mandatory).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsScvAv5yKA&feature=related

But I am not worried about feuds going on, there are more than enough problems and boulders out in the Batholith to go around that is for certain. What I do fear that this all is lost in the Juniper maze before it is recorded.

Remember this...
There are few things where complete solitude and community can be intertwined into one experience- bouldering- maybe the perfect blend.

Getting Isolated

2011-04-27T07:07:00.000-07:00

It seems that a good sign of spring in the Boulder Batholith is when the Isolated Boulders come into season. Set up against McClusky, this area, though it's great for spring, it typically holds more snow than the Trailers and the Desert. April is usually when folks are able to head in without trouble.

Midweek I was able to get out for an afternoon session with Odenbeck, Whitmore, and Conrad. It was great to get out and fun to show Conrad some of the lesser known areas...some of the local gems may actually work their way into the design for the next Bozeman Boulder. A super fun day for sure, hopefully I can start to get out more during the week...

Thin

Knobbage Slabbage

New one

Down Climb

arete

'Don't Rip me Off'

Saturday, Kalah and I loaded up the trailer and headed out to meet Dom and many others to celebrate his birthday. A great weekend for it too, great weather, BBQ, keg of beer and lots of great folks! We ended up exploring a new stretch of woods southeast of the Lower Isolated Boulders for the majority of the day...

New ones

Back at the trailer we met up with Emily, P.Wolfe, and Ari and headed upto the Upper Isolated for an evening session. For more pics check out Emily's blog.

Hopefully this is a sign of things to come...looking forward to moving higher in the hills...

Cheers!

Callous Building

2011-04-18T12:05:00.000-07:00

[kal-uhs]

–adjective

made hard; hardened.

insensitive; indifferent; unsympathetic: They have a callous attitude toward the sufferings of others.

having a callus; indurated, as parts of the skin exposed to friction.

The last week saw me out in the Batholith a cumulative five times. Once to the Isos and four times to the Trailer Boulders. The Isos are pretty much in season, with just a bit of snow to posthole through in the deep trees. Fruh and I worked out the majority of the beta for a classic vertical testpiece in the Upper Isos and plan on finishing it off this upcoming weekend. The Trailer Boulders have seen significant development this year and are shaping up to being one the best areas in the entire batholith. All of the following photos are from the Trailers.

Z crushing the sit-start to Coming Down

Crimp nasty project on the 7 Gram Rock

Fruh on Airstream Vhard

Cruxing

Still Cruxing

Patrick working out the beta next to Airstream

Rehab on the backside of Popup Rock

Gotta Love the Trailers

2011-04-11T09:26:00.000-07:00

On April 2nd the Trailers had probably the biggest crowd to date somewhere around 15 people. A lot of new stuff by Dagmar's Hot Pants went down (pardon the pun), including the sit start to Dagmar's and a fantastic lunge problem called Blood Feather. In the main area Pat Wolfe sent the razor sharp right side start to the Aristocrat. The Trailers are getting to be quite rad!

Last week was very wet here in Bozeman. I kept my fingers crossed for the weekend and was not disappointed- the Batholith came through once again- gotta love that rain shadow.

The initial plan was to go with Tom on Sunday but he has been sick/rejuvenating for the past week(s) so it ended up being a solo mission. I found myself at the Trailers once again to check out some of the newer blocks Tom had discovered on the West side of the ATV trail- notably a beautiful overhang. At first I lacked any motivation but somehow ended up putting up five new problems in the area and gave the overhang project a good cleaning and a couple really good goes. When I first saw the overhang I thought it lacked enough holds to climb- but it is all there- it is going to be a classic!

Later on I found myself wondering North of Dagmar's for some new blocks- no surprise I found a couple really nice ones, this block I call the Cyclops and it is pretty freaking cool.

The Cyclops (the Crack/Face is called Polyphemus)

The Cyclops (the Horizontal Crack is called Galatea- its a project)

I am not sure how many problems are in the Trailers, currently I estimate 50-60 maybe more. The area is certainly growing quickly we shall see in the next couple weeks what else will be revealed.

Unraveling the Labyrinth

2011-03-30T14:46:00.000-07:00

For the past couple of years I have been wondering- sometimes aimlessly- through the Batholith. I first visited the area in 2005 and was blown away- it reminded me of Red Feather Lakes back in CO, except 10 times bigger. I could not believe that there was so much rock and I had heard nothing about these endless fields of boulders- except what was over in Whiskey Gulch. I clearly remember the first day I went up the pass drove toward Delmoe Lake spied some blocks of the side of the road and put up 10 or more quality problems. Was I dreaming? No I was not... and I guess it can be summed up in this phrase- "Patrick you are not in Colorado anymore..."

I have since learned that simultaneously Tom and others were putting up problems sometimes feet away from some of the same areas I was working on and others had been bouldering in area years ago but neglected to record much- needless to say it is a big place with even bigger potential. First ascents are pretty much guaranteed every time you go and/or bring a problem of old into the limelight.

Here are a couple visual excerpts of some of the things my friends and I have found over the years some you might recognize.

Yours truly on Fade Away

Kevin Brumbach digging some Solace

Aaron Burford Scooping It Out

Velvet

Even though the snow is slaying Bridger, recently my psych for the Batholith has increased exponentially. Tom and are going to start working together to actually get some more of these places recorded- and attempt to bring some more of the Batholith bouldering out of obscurity. I thought I'd throw a couple shots in from a session in the Trailers 2 weeks ago as well.

Pat Wolfe on Tearjerker

Tom on an Airstream Project

Stay tuned for more...

Trailers, spring, injury and new authors

2011-03-28T14:09:00.000-07:00

A beautiful Saturday out in the Trailer Boulders...t-shirt weather for the majority. Kalah and I headed out with a late day start and still managed a good session, a testament to the longer days.

Much of the day was spent exploring new boulders and problems...and coming to terms that I need to chill out if I'm ever going to heal. For the last 3 months both of my middle fingers have been pretty trashed...stubbornness, the Lazy V Bar and continual weekend sessions has left little time for me to heal. I am currently popping MSM and glucosamine in hopes of speeding up the process, and trying to take it easy on the fingers...hopefully I can shift focus to mapping and cross-training(exploring) long enough to heal...but spring is a tough time to try and chill...any other supplements I should be taking?!

I'm also very happy to announce we're adding 2 new authors to the blog. Patrick Odenbeck has been exploring, climbing and developing in the Boulder Batholith for the past 6 years or so. It's great to find another individual out there exploring the vastness of the Boulder Batholith and very cool to find that we have been exploring some of the same areas...psyched to have Patrick on the blog and to combine forces for greater knowledge of the area.

Clay Adams is also joining the blog once we work out a couple hitches. Clay has been joining us on Batholith missions for the last couple years, as well heading out on his own. Clay has been particularly active in the Isolated Boulders and the Northern Bourbons, pushing development along the northeast ridge. Both will be great additions to the blog, and should be great voices for the area.

Here are a couple pics from the weekend and another short video from the trailers...All new problems, Palm Pilot was put up by Patrick Odenbeck 2 weeks ago, the other 2 are from Saturday...Dagmar's sds will go, I just didn't want to stress the fingers...

New moderate...2 other new problems on this boulder, and one 'project' that was too much for my injured fingers.

featured lowball overhang(hidden in the shade) and a lowball a-frame(in the sun) that's about 15 feet long...looked alot like Hotdog in the hallway...

Also, Lynn Hill (along with Whit Magro) will be speaking at the Emerson here in Bozeman this Wednesday to benefit the Bozeman Boulders Initiative. Please come down for what should be a great event!

details here:
http://bozemanboulders.blogspot.com/2011/03/nltc-presents-lynn-hill-and-evolution.html

Cheers!

Hanging out in Pocatello

2011-03-24T11:06:00.000-07:00

Sunday I headed out for a session at the Trailer Boulders. I meet up with Emily, Josh, P-Wolf, and Patrick O...It was a good day and fun to show off some new stuff, and also linking together what Patrick has done in the area....The Trailer Boulders are filling out nicely!

I then went down to Pocatello for a GIS conference...A very useful trip and fun to meet & reconnect with folks in the field. I also picked up some techniques that should hopefully improve the bouldering guide maps. As well as learning about some upcoming/existing technologies that is going to make exploring/finding boulders(along with everything else) much easier...

I headed out to check out the bouldering in town in Pocatello...unfortunately it had snowed the day prior, so I made due and got a couple problems in. I must say though, it's a very cool bouldering resource they have right in town and pretty damn cool just to pull over at a city park and be able to boulder. If you are in the area, check it out. Here's a link to the free guidebook:

http://www.isu.edu/outdoor/climbing/bouldering.htm

Cheers!

Trailer Vid

2011-03-17T08:39:00.000-07:00

It was a good Saturday a few days back...nice and sunny, a good crew and lots of fun. Some new problems, some repeats, and some projects...word.

A short video from the Trailer Boulders.

Cheers!

Back to the Trailer Boulders

2011-03-07T05:27:00.000-08:00

A good day out at the Trailer Boulders. Kevin M and myself rolled out to the Batholith on Saturday to get back on some stone...the destination was still up in the air when we took the Pipestone exit...The Desert was dry as we rolled pass, but the road is in full on 'spring' condition(muddy and a few big ruts)...once we hit the 4-corners, we were greeted by a massive ATV rally...I spaced the 'fun ride'

I blasted north hoping that the ride didn't go through the Isolated Boulders, and we headed up the east fork to the lower parking, only to find the road in is still untracked deep snow...we gave a try to the west fork only to find the same result...So unless you're willing to walk in, it may take a few weeks for the area to shape up...

Pope's Simulator

Undeterred, we ambled back to the Trailer Boulders for a session. after a quick warm up on the Pope's Simulator, we added another problem to the boulder, and moved on to some new goods...After a quick walk about, we got after some new ones...resulting in 11(?) new problems, with Kevin cruising the majority. A super fun day and hopefully a sign of things to come.

Cheers!

Columbia Gardens circa 1905

2011-03-04T07:03:00.000-08:00

Cheers!

A couple from Whiskey

2011-03-02T11:22:00.000-08:00

February brought us out to Whiskey Gulch a couple times...mainly to work on the Crack of Doom with the brotherman, but to also work a couple other random things...

Once again, I was surprised by the snow level difference compared to the lower elevation areas on Delmoe Lake Rd...

A few things I must mention:

-Someone had a fire under 'Hairy Palms', a problem on/next to the hidden boulder/caught in the act...the fire scarred the bottom of the problem...there are no other user groups to blame...a scrappy V2 or not, it's very sad to see the rock disrespected in such a way...there is no excuse.

-There is a mattress that needs to get cleaned up over by the Popes...I thought this was cleaned up, but discovered it discarded 10 yards or so to the east, rotting under some boulders...gross. I swear that there was a pic of some kids with the mattress floating around on the web, and thought they said it would be cleaned up...anyone know what I'm talking about? Shit is weak...

Also, the tickmarks out there are ridiculous...if you can't read the rock, and must use rookie stripes, at least brush them when you're done...

Please consider your actions.

So if anyone heads out there soon...if you haul out the mattress, I'll hook you and your buddies up with some beers and a couple guidebooks...I would have done it myself, but didn't have the truck with me...

Pat working the low/thin crux on the COD...he was super close, but within a 1/2 hour of arriving, the route went from 'kinda wet' to 'soaked'...

Checking out 'The Thing'...pretty damn cool Jeff!

Weather-wise, things are back on the upswing...and I'm psyched to head back out to the Batholith...maybe I'll see you out there...

Cheers,
Tom

Continental Divide circa 1900

2011-02-28T14:59:00.000-08:00

An old photo from the top of the Homestake Pass...the telegraph(?) line gives a clue to the photo's location....same line that runs between the tracks and the highway?

Back and forth...

2011-02-24T08:47:00.000-08:00

As the weather jumps all over the place...the weekend plans may have to be altered...

four below this morning up top...

Mabye this?

or this?

or?

Winter Distraction

2011-02-15T18:20:00.000-08:00

Since I have not been able to get outside too much due to the snow--I have taken a friend up on an offer to build a climbing wall/ woodie/ cave at his place.

The following pics are the work in progress--just awaiting T-nuts...

Overall view

Looking out from the back

Looking in from the top of the "perches"

Overhanging hand-crack arete

Hopefully, some rad sessions will go down and some folk will get stronger:-)

Mid-week session

2011-02-11T09:06:00.000-08:00

A quick shot from last night...blank canvas and lots of holds...

Looks like things will be warm over the weekend on the Homestake pass as well...47 and sunny for Whitehall on Saturday...NICE!

Cheers!

February adventures

2011-02-08T09:37:00.000-08:00

Saturday morning I met up with the brotherman for a day of exploring up Delmoe Lake Rd...taking things a bit easy since he had a big day getting after "Crack of Doom' out at Whiskey...sounds like he's very close! Strong stuff.

We headed up Halfway Creek to take another look at the lower anomalies and see what was farther up the draw...things are were a bit snowy, but we managed to find some new gems, including a cool looking overhanging finger crack perched ontop of a a 18-20' steepish slab...could be a cool one!

After the successful walkabout we figured we'd finish up by completing the Delmoe lake loop to top the Homestake exit...we scoped roadsiders and ambled up the road...to our surprise the road conditions were much worse than 1 month prior, and the semi traveled road turned into 4-wheeler and snowmobile tracks just after the Delmoe Lake (10 miles off the interstate), we made it about a half mile further before the trouble began...the jeep was sucked into the soft snow/ditch on a uphill corner...after a couple hours of digging we knew that the we'd need reinforcements...I walked and found cell reception, and thankfully Molly was in Butte and able to come out to get us...4 hours after getting stuck and 3 miles of hiking in the dark later, we were on the road to Butte for the night.

We called in the troops, Clay, Scotty and Trevor came and met us the next morning. Fellas ready to do battle, truly good friends coming out to help us in a time of stress...we were very appreciative. A tenuous drive to Delmoe lake ensued... and a hike to the jeep from there...after a good shoveling session we were greeted by a 4-wheeler and snowmobile...they jumped into rescue mode, hooked a tow strap up to the atv, and a few minutes late the jeep was popped back onto the road. Soon we were back in Whitehall, full of relief...Thanks again to all that helped out, much appreciated.

The pit...the Jeep slid down and nosed down into the ditch...damn steep in the lower left corner...

So if you're thinking of exploring the back parts of the road, I'd suggest waiting a bit...especially now after Mondays storm...unless you are rolling an ATV or snowmo that is...

In other news, Clay has been busy with a new extension on his home wall...this thing is going to be epic...more to come as it develops...

Cheers!

Late January in the Desert

2011-02-01T11:17:00.000-08:00

Saturday I rolled out to the Desert with Ty, Trevor, and Ethan to meet up with the Brotherman, The Mojede crew, Clay and Derrick, and Dave and Chris from Outside Bozeman. It was cool to have a large crew and some new folks on these problems...a good tour ensued.

After a bit of warming up, Pat dispensed the OW Invert Project on the BLM Boulder (more info to come in the updates section) and Buttian Warlord saw a nice session...we then headed over to Optronic Eye...after some strong goes, the crimper just above the low horizontal ripped off...DOH! 4 years later, the problem gives us a new challenge...the new version of optronic should go, though it may jump the rating a bit...

We then headed over to the Bullet Boulder, where the grainy west face project saw a couple of variant ascents, one more center, and one moving towards the southwest arete (more info to come in the updates section)

After we wrapped up things on the Bullet Boulder, Dave and Chris headed out and we jumped over to the West Hill for a go at Rubberband Man...the resulting video is a product of late day cell phone filming...viddy well my droogs...

Cheers,
Tom

Black Sheep Boulders

2011-01-28T15:29:00.000-08:00

After 7+ years of not finding a particular boulder, I was both relieved and a little disappointed to find it--the memory sure makes adventures grand...

These boulders, and others in the vicinity are of a little different breed of granite than its Desert proper kin--a good thing, IMO. Easy to find, but difficult to explain with a mile approach is what will keep most Batholith visitors away, but if you are up for some variety in your life, then seek out these:

Domes of the Boulder Batholtih

2011-01-23T10:44:00.000-08:00

Trevor and I went out yesterday for a bit of exploration...a hike up Halfway Creek and a hike across Big Pipestone Creek to check out the unnamed dome on the opposite side...

This dome, according to Kurt Krueger, had some ancient fixed anchors...we figured summit pitons or some fixed tat, but what we found was a very old bolt line up slab on the rear of the dome. Leeper hangers and quarter inchers...a couple of nice cracks on the slab as well...

This pair of overhanging cracks looked great...something to return to.

Summit push

Cruising one of the slab cracks, a fun romp, reminiscent of Knapsack Crack on the Hogbacks at the Leap...the bolted slab is off to my left...

We rounded out the day with a trip to the Freeway Tavern, as Trevor needed to experience the best Wop Chop in the city...a good day to be sure and nice to be back in the Batholith.

Cheers

Ready...so ready

2011-01-19T09:17:00.000-08:00

After a week(literally) of the flu, I'm feeling back on my game again...and quite a bit 'lighter' feeling...maybe this will help with some winter sends though...crazy warm temps lately has melted out much of the Boulder Batholith...but last night's storm may have taken a bit out of the progress...I guess I'll find out in the coming days...

Old shot of Big Slabby, Northern Desert

A new year begins

2011-01-01T21:38:00.000-08:00

No pictures or reports--just hope that everyone's experiences in the Batholith for 2011 equal or better than those savored in 2010

Late December Bouldering

2010-12-28T11:59:00.000-08:00

With the holidays in full swing, I managed to take some time to head over to the Boulder Batholith for a bit of exploring and bouldering...

Right around the solstice, the brotherman and I headed out for a day of exploring. We ended up exploring the east side of the Halfway Creek draw, being lured in by clusters on the skyline...while the boulders were somewhat sparse, a few gems lay waiting in this area...though the 5-10 minute uphill walk is a bit far for typical approaches out here...so they may have to wait for a bit longer...

good rock though...

Perhaps the best looking one in the area, with a couple of great looking lines possible.

A decent traverse just uphill

evening light on the King..

On Sunday we headed out towards Whiskey to see if the Doom Wall was dry and to jump on a couple problems...unfortunately a combination of a semi-late start and a couple exploratory stops on the way in, we were already somewhat strapped for time...

We abandoned the idea of hiking gear in only to find the Doom Wall dry and in the sun and most of the boulders wet with snowy top-outs...about 4-6 inches of snow on the ground as of the 26th...We ended up on the Popes and after a couple refresher attempts I was working my way towards the wet top-out...only to 'stub' my finger slapping(over tossing) my way up...DOH!...so close only to botch my finger and end my day early...

a couple shots

All and all though, some good days for late December in the Batholith...it's been a while(2007) since I've bouldered at Whiskey, so it was nice to be back and get on some old favorites...I certainly didn't miss that extra hour of driving though and seeing 6 inch rookie stripes everywhere is a bit sad (please clean up your messes folks)...we'll probably wait a bit before returning as there are drier/closer areas around Butte to climb and explore currently...though the Doom Wall is calling out to us...quite the siren...

Cheers
Tom

X-mas snow cover report

2010-12-24T15:26:00.000-08:00

Driving to Bozeman with the mojede4, and passing Mr. Bill Dockins (and family) en route, got me motivated to post some conditions for snow around the Batholith. Without any further adieu...

-----Resort Rocks: 80% (or more) free of snow on the top-outs, 95% bare dry ground

-----Land of 100 Cracks: 90% (or better) free of snow on the top-outs, approach about 80% (or more) bare and dry (if done right, staying on the West side of the drainage).

-----Benchlands: 75+% free of snow on the top-outs (melting quickly), with mostly dry ground once crossed over Homestake Creek.

-----Desert and surrounds: Not directly observed, but one could expect 80-90% snow-free top-outs with snow accumulated in shady/Northside areas.

-----Ringing Rocks "area": Bare and dry on the large, broken, crack-laden face; expect snow the closer one gets to the Ringers.

Consider all other areas to have significant snow on the ground, AND on the tops of the boulders :-(

I am anticipating a solo mission to photograph some of the cracks in the Land of 100 area--STAY TUNED, IT will be my last photo post of the year :-)

Random Cell Photos

2010-12-17T10:30:00.000-08:00

Recently I upgraded to a new phone, so in the process I dumped all the photos I took over the last couple years off my old rig...and edited some up to post here...

Mid-Benchlands...near Trengel

Finger crack roof in the Northern Desert

Choss above Welch Quarry

Short face in the upper Isos

Cloud Nine

Aframe at Resort Rocks

So many boulders...

Halfway Creek Dome Solo

Trailers...

Mile 3

Cilley Roof, Dockins Roof to the right

Isos

an early OW list...

Corner Proj, Coyote Flats

Butte Special

Thin line

Isos

Delmoe Lake

Isos

Mojede4

Cloven Hoof photo op

Hideout Ridge possibility

Hideout Ridge

A new one...

Midnight tepee

Clay's gym

Cheers!

The Desert and Benchlands

2010-12-13T10:20:00.000-08:00

Saturday I headed out with Ares to the Desert...the snow was considerably less...with about and inch of patchy snow, and most of the top-outs were dry. After a warm-up on the Mastodon, we we sessioned 'Ron's Crack' and worked on 'Analogue Movements'...unfortunately my balance wasn't cooperating and I was spat off repeatedly on the later...we rounded out the day with a fire by the Bullet Boulder...

That evening the Brotherman rolled back into town...so the next morning we rolled out to the Benchlands...driving by the Desert, which looked even more melted out then the day prior...the Benchlands on the other hand had a bit of snow to tromp through...but undeterred, we set about on a long walkabout, and as usual found a number of interesting problems, and once again we were stumped on locating 'The Breather' a problem established a couple years ago...lost somewhere on the top of the hill...all and all a good day exploring and a good weekend of climbing.

a few pics

~15' roof crack...hands to fingers to flair

New project...

Looking out at Sally and other mid-bench problems

Cheers!

Sunday in the Desert

2010-12-06T13:55:00.000-08:00

If I didn't get out it'd be 3 weeks without being in the Boulder Batholith, 3 weeks without being on real rock...all Bozeman partners were unavailable or MIA so I said f-it and went solo...While gassing up I shot a call over to Pauly in Butte, a psyched Buttian, and we ended up meeting out in the Desert....

With 3 inches of snow on the ground, but the sun shinning, Paul nor I were deterred, and we set about with a walking tour...I wasn't sure what we'd be getting on, but Paul saw the OW invert project on the BLM Boulder and suggested we work it...snowy inverts in the shade...pretty cool to meet another psyched to suffer! I busted out the Koflachs and we went to work...while it still remains a project, we both made good progress on it, and experimented a bit with one foot inverts/swing-thrus...pretty wild committing on a single heel-toe, but it may turn out to be the preferred beta for this one...

We then went down to the Bullet Boulder, Pauly made short work of 'Thug Life' and we also worked a line just right of it...save for the top-outs which were a bit too snowy...

Afterward we did a bit of driving and scoping, heading out to the Isolated Boulders to find about 4-5 inches vs the 3" in the Desert...I think it's proximity to McClusky must play into that...overall a good day and very cool to meet Paul in person.

With foretasted temps in the upper 30s and lower 40s for this week, I'm hoping most of this snow will be gone by the weekend...either way I'm sure I'll there...

Cheers,
Tom

Outta the deep freeze and into some new hightops

2010-12-02T08:35:00.000-08:00

After two weeks without some real rock I feel like jumping out of my skin...fortunately the temps have become better in the last few days and by this weekend things should be climbable across much of the lower eastside of the Boulder Batholith...first session to the Benchlands may even be order.

Earlier this week, Conrad stopped by the office and gifted me one of the coolest pairs of hightops I've ever seen. In the mid-90s Koflach made a prototype rock boot to go inside their alpine boots...while the combo idea didn't pan out, the resulting hightop is pretty badass.

Here's a comparison to the Mega

I'm pretty psyched on giving them a go...quite the armor for the ankle and shin. Thanks again Conrad!

On a side note, if you're in Bozeman tomorrow evening (Friday the 3rd), stop by the Filling Station and check out the Archers Mob/MOTH show...Gonna be an audio/visual extravaganza

Cheers!

A Saturday in the Isos

2010-11-18T14:45:00.000-08:00

Headed out on Saturday with Jesse to go climb and explore some more in the Isolated Boulders...A good day but I spaced the memory card. A few new problems, a couple good new potentials, and a 'project' that will surely go next time...all in all a good day out exploring and getting the Isos dialed back in...

Some new 'improvements' at the Burned-out Stove Boulder...

The weather looks a bit sketchy for the weekend...but it may turn out decent for exploring...sometimes you just gotta go out and look...

Cheers!

Just another Autumn photo post--Mom and Son

2010-11-14T20:05:00.000-08:00

Some shots of Molly and Ladd on the stone just off of the beginning of the CDT (Homestake tracks):

The uber-thin diagonal cracks in the last pic are untouched as of yet...

Hideout Ridge and the CDT

2010-11-10T13:19:00.000-08:00

Looked like the weather on top of the pass would be getting tough soon, with one more nice weekend in the cards and the brotherman hanging out in Butte, we headed out to some of the higher elevation areas...

Sometimes there's a loose flake or two on the new ones...careful out there...

Laughing up WSOW (World Series of Wide)

After a quick warm up on a new one, the plan was to check out the Taxman look-alike...which turned out to be a bit harder than we remembered...so we took a 'quick' exploring tour that ended up going on for about 4 hours. The ridge has an incredible amount of potential, and some really wild looking lines...we became very overwhelmed by the whole hike...so many good looking lines, then another handful of pins and fins just a few minutes farther.(repeat) I have no doubt that this area will be seeing much more action in the coming seasons...

Looking back at the Hideout (currently contains ~20 routes on the two formations)

Pat scoping a wide one

Interesting feature on this one...

After a evening in Butte we headed back out to the Blue bro project on the CDT...meeting up with Clay and Mish in process...a good day working the rig, with everyone giving it a go.

Clay getting inverted

Belay perspective

Finally the beta was figured out and Pat got the TR send. Strong work to be sure...plans for the lead are in the works, but now with the seasons changing, this might become a spring mission...

Overall a great weekend savoring the last efforts of Autumn.

Cheers!

The last of Mr. Cilley?

2010-11-08T07:10:00.000-08:00

A warm Autumn week day provided the back-drop for one final climbing day with Dick? We warmed up at the "Cilley" boulders, then spent the rest of the outing at the Triple Crown area above the CDT on the south side of Interstate.

Roadside warm-up face

Pulling the crux of another good find

Playing "Hogan's Heroes" in a hollowed out stump

Queueing up for the Triple Crown

Charging through the "Freakness Steaks" aka "Wop Chop"

Mid-way through them all--on "The Belmont Hammer"

An old 5 lb. mining sledge hammer was found in this crack upon a closer look at the crack...

An ol' skool, pad-less attempt (my bad in going for the camera first...)

Finally nearing the home stretch on "The Montucky Derby"--hardest of the 3

Crossing the finish line...

Video of the full race...

Within five minutes of the above cracks are a dozen more (some harder, some easier) cracks to boulder, not to mention some OW rope action immediately to the right of the Triple Crown cracks.

Safe travels and good climbin' to you, Dick--it was an honor to partake with you on the pebbles.

Trailer and Druthers Tour

2010-11-02T09:01:00.000-07:00

After a costume filled evening I met up Saturday morning with a psyched crew and headed out for a tour of a couple lower elevation zones in the Boulder Batholith...the Trailer Boulders and the Druthers.

Ari, Kevin M, Kyle and I made the brief walk into the main Trailer Boulders, on the way in I showed off the two sporadic overhanging prows...both seemed to inspire and help build psyche for the day, and perhaps the area in general...after a quick walking tour of the main Trailers, we jumped on a handful of established moderates, Misty was well received, The Aristocrat saw a round of sends, and a new overhang was cleaned up and quickly sent.

After about 8 or so problems we jumped on the proper(project) start to an unnamed problem Ron put up last season. Previously a stand start from the cobble up and right of Kyle.

Kyle made great progress on the start, deciphering all the moves. A send can't be far away...pretty damn cool.

We then ventured back towards the rigs, meeting up with Brady, Briton, Hutch and kids...we checked out the more reasonable of the sporadic overhangs, and then walked out to the Druthers.

We did a brief tour and then wound down the day at central boulder in the Druthers...seeing how feasible the finish of the super-proj is...

Impressive goes on a problem with few features...new beta was used on the initial toss and Kevin even made a go for the lip. Good stuff, but deemed mega hard...

Overall a super fun day showing off a couple zones to new eyes. Hope to be out again soon.

Cheers!

Winter, Weather, and the Boulder Batholith

2010-10-28T16:04:00.000-07:00

With the first snow fallen, many folks are switching gears, getting ready to slide on snow and slice the ice...which is great, but that doesn't mean that the bouldering season is over in Montana...in many zones in the Eastern Boulder Batholith, the temperatures are just getting good.

Last season was a bit tough on weather...the El Nino weather patterns pushed the systems in from the south rather than the west...this made the snow levels higher than I have seen in the last 4 winters out there.

To get a decent idea of the weather, I usually look at a couple sources.

-I check the weather conditions in WHITEHALL, not Butte.

-If I am unsure the current snow levels, I sometimes like to call the Town Pump there and see what the weather is doing.

-The MDOT Homestake Pass Cam....which has been ripped out now twice in the last year...it was nice to be able to loop the imagery and get an idea of up top, but most of the time it just looks cold up there, which is can be...it's 1300' higher in elevation than the Desert...but the weather station up top is still active, and able to give you an idea of what the temps and precipitation has been like.

here's a quick overview:

When you go to the "Homestake Webcam" link in the right sidebar you arrive at this page:

Click the "Atmospheric History" link on the bottom left

This page gives you current conditions for the top of the pass, though I find the graph is an easier way to look back at the last couple days

Click the "Surface History Graph" link

This is the 48 hour history that I just generated...got up to 50 on top today. The green indicated recorded precipitation.

Today's weather in Whitehall:

The outlook for Whitehall:

Looks like it should be a good one...Planning on heading out for Saturday would be a good choice, but I wouldn't rule out Sunday...

Whatever it is you choose to do though, enjoy. Fill your cup and drink up life.

Cheers,
Tom

Back in the Trailer Boulders

2010-10-24T09:04:00.000-07:00

The last two Saturdays, I've been back in the Trailer Boulders...tucked back off of some ATV trails, this zone continues to grow...

Yesterday after a decent morning session, we went for a walkabout in the light afternoon showers...just minutes below The Aristocrat there is another large section of boulders, they continue southeast and link all the way over to what was once referred to as 'Moderate Mecca'...an area briefly explored about 5 years ago...from there a small single track trail links up back to the east side of the Trailer boulders. The proximity is very close, and should add alot to the zone...

A few problems from the Trailer Boulders

Cheers!

Crack training day

2010-10-20T07:48:00.000-07:00

Dick Cilley returned to the Batholith for another sojourn, and I teamed up with him on a crisp and clear Autumn day to take on some pebble cracks.

Some pics:

Super Saucer walkaround

2010-10-18T15:30:00.000-07:00

2010-10-10T19:38:00.000-07:00

I was pleasantly surprised when Mountain Dad called and said that he and his family were in Butte for a two day stop-over. He has been curious what lay in the 'Lith, and we were fortunate to have a bluebird day in which to romp amongst the klettergarten (the Northern Bourbons).

Ladd was allowed to skip school so that Freney and Elias had a fellow micro to boulder with...

I pulled off this face/arete send, which thwarted my long ago crag partner...

His Norweigen family highly enjoyed the holdings of the Northern Bourbons, their time in Butte, and looking forward to their next visit.

We even bumped into some other visitin' folk--Rick and Cameron from Philipsburg:-)

Wide Weekend

2010-10-04T11:20:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, the brotherman made the drive over from ID to meet me in Butte and attack some new OWs we've discovered over the summer...

First off was a tour of the established routes in the Hideout Ridge area and bring him to this overhanging OW/squeeze thing I scoped a few weeks back. After a brief warmup we dug in and Pat onsighted the rig! Pretty rad and very 'blue collar'...the unprotected crux is wild: sideways chicken wings/side winding to get up into the squeeze. Proud.

After the grueling session, we went for a short walk about and headed back to the trailer...but not before finding another few crazy looking problems...one thing looks like taxman but twice or three times the size and at a 45 instead on horizontal...crazy!

Taxman in Ved

The following day we headed back out to the Blue-bro proj area...but not after a bit of scoping and coffee.

"Dude..."

At the blue-bro area I jumped on a route that now is 'my project'...heh. A pivot in the sky...climbing strange jumbles to reach a pair of cheeks 25' up...quite the pivot up there! Felt good, I almost have it worked out...falling at the anchors...taking inverted falls is kinda interesting!

Cheeks in the Sky

We then put in a session on the blue-bro project...still waiting for a send, but Pat was super close!..Hutch put in some TR anchors and would make for great training! Hoping to get out that way again before the snow takes over the CDT...

Overall a great weekend, and super fun to be climbing with the brother again!

On a side note, I entered a t-shirt design contest over at Northern Lights(a local gear shop)....do me a favor: follow the link and vote?

http://northernlightstrading.blogspot.com/p/t-shirt-designs.html

This was my design...A favorite tower out in the Humbugs...

Thanks!
and
Cheers!

Tom

Venus Alley - Hideout Ridge

2010-10-01T11:29:00.000-07:00

Just got a couple pics emailed to me from Cole from last weekend's excursion...another great day up on the Hideout Ridge...the route count jumped from 8 to 16...with lots more to climb...and lots more pins to explore...heading out for the weekend with the brotherman to try and get a better handle on the area...and jump on a couple horrow-show OWs that I've scoped over the past couple times out there...stay tuned, I might be updating from the field...

Midway up on the FA of Venus Alley...Trevor airing it out on the arete...

Hope all y'all are able to get out and enjoy this weekend!

Cheers!

Return of the Jedi

2010-09-29T09:26:00.000-07:00

Though Mr. Dick Cilley ventured out to the Batholith for a 2+week stay, I managed to hook-up with and climb only once--my loss, but any day that one can climb with a master is triumphant one...

Some pics:

Testing "new" vert terrain

Succeeding

Gunning the steeps

High step on marginal jams

Brave new crack

Cleaning up the seconds on lay-back

Looking forward to his next return...

Tying the record

2010-09-25T17:52:00.000-07:00

Yearly post count has been matched, growth has been steady, things are getting good.

Some photos on the way out of "Stifler's Hideout"

A cool boulder amongst the mini-crags--the OG Doug Fir theory working once again.

Odd problem

Slappy overhangin' arete

Great crack to death flake finish

Uber-pin with perfect OW weakness

Hopefully, the post record will fall soon.

2010-09-20T07:30:00.000-07:00

A nice Saturday up in a new backwaters zone...lots of potential it seems up on this ridge...including a number of roped routes. We ended up doing 8 new crack routes and a handful of boulder problems...more details later...

This find is in the area...a wild looking overhanging OW/squeeze...should prove to be interesting!

Cheers!

More from the "Far Side" (SW 'lith)

2010-09-15T07:03:00.001-07:00

Before Ben gets shipped off to Afghanistan, he needed one more visit to pebbles to satisfy his "Jones"...

Take care over there, my friend, and keep your head down!

Southwestern batholith findings

2010-09-06T21:47:00.000-07:00

Some samples and pics from a "new" area in the Bathoith:

Sipping Bourbon in the Backroom

2010-08-31T10:16:00.000-07:00

Saturday was looking grim, thick skies threatened good temps...but it was unclear how much was haze from the fires to the west. The day turned out well though, a couple short sporadic showers, but all in all a very climbable day.

We headed to the Backroom of the Bourbons, a short hike beyond the Bourbons proper gains the Backroom, still fully stocked. Brady, Ramos, Clay, Whitmore, Zana and 3/4 of the Mojede clan came out and enjoyed the burn of the Bourbons.

Session on a previously established problem

A thin saucer project

"Climbs like a route"

Andrew cruising

Barrel-Chested...a ~10-15' traverse through the squeeze to gain the exit above.

Though the invert seemed to prove to go much easier

I think Ladd had the send of the day though:

He sprinted up the No-hands slab...probably one of the taller problems that Ladd has ticked, didn't even faze him...hopefully he doesn't spray too hard about it at his first day of kindergarten today though! HA! Whadda crusher!

Cheers!
Tom

Teasing Out Dad's Hidden Stash in the Northern Bourbons

2010-08-27T10:42:00.001-07:00

Here are a few from last Sunday. Worked on the Bachar Traverse in the Bourbons proper for an hour or so...making progress on it, but it still thwarts the send. We then wandered back up to the Northern Bourbons and dicked around to the west (downhill) of Special Reserve and Caligula. Found a few nice cracks and one beautiful face project.

Zana holding onto the start of stellar new proj

Twin cracks: Left is V1, Right is V2/3

Raspberry Boulder with Twin Cracks pictured

Just south of Raspberry Boulder lies this stout little traverse, V4 it seems.

On another climbing note. I sent my long-standing (for me) project in Gallatin Canyon. The second pitch of my route "I am a Wicked Child" has been a battle for me. Last fall the send was in hand when I bumbled the exiting 5.11 crux (onto a shitty flared #3 Camalot)... then it began to snow/rain for the winter. Lots of distractions this summer kept me off it except for a few attempts which saw me falling at the last moves again. Finally pieced it together earlier this week. its a beauty. Off a ledge it punches you in the face with a overhanging 5.12 boulder-problem for 15'. Then 3 hanging corners are negotiated (5.10ish). The last 60' involve typical Gallatin face climbing, including two 5.11 cruxes, protected by an assortment of gear. All in all it goes for 34 meters to the chains and is rated at 5.12.

Cheers and Beers,

AWhit

Post-Bash climbing

2010-08-23T11:12:00.000-07:00

The trailers were parked, folks were hanging out, and we had some days to climb and explore...a recap of some of the post-bash climbing...

Sunday morning after the bash, after a bit of cleaning up, coffee drinking and waking up we headed from the trailer camp out to the backroom of the Bourbons...about a 10 minute walk or so from the regular Bourbons parking. Pat, Justin, Cole and I headed out to show Justin the overhanging crack project - a bad size at a bad angle...seemed like quite the warm up. I felt pretty worked from the day and evening before, but Justin taped up and threw down. Crushed the rig 2nd go, and nearly onsighting the thing...Proud!

Cloud Nine (.13-)

Pat and Cole gave good attempts as well, we also played around on a couple nearby stones...

Cole on the no hands slab

We then headed back to the headquarters, dropped off Cole, picked up Eric and headed out to the Cloven Hoof...a new OW that Pat established early this summer - short and stout. Justin continued to dispatch and onsighted the Cloven Hoof. Strong work for sure!

Cloven Hoof (.12)

Skin donation

We then continued out into the Coyote Flats to mess around on the Corner Project...the day was getting late for Justin as he had to hit the road, but in my couple of attempts I gained a new high point...stemmed back into the corner as it blanks out...just a couple more pure stemming moves to the top...should be an interesting finish.

We said our goodbyes and Justin headed back to WY, hopefully to return sooner than later. Pat, Eric and I loaded up and headed out for an evening session on the new OW/squeeze that Kevin spied a few weeks prior...a quick hike on the CD trail to access a nice small outcropping with a number of interesting lines. Pat roped up and jumped in...the flakes at the bottom of made pro a bit funky, but soon enough he was fiddling in a couple blue bros, a challenge with the flared nature of the line. A really good onsight attempt, but we were forced to continue another day as we were lacking enough tubes...thing is WIDE!

I had to head back to Bozeman that evening, but after a couple hours at the office the next day I was back on the road out there. I arrived in the heat of the day on Monday at the trailers...I was nearly met by Pat and Eric who were psyched on a new find. We loaded up pads and gear and headed out to the hillside find. Another great new OW roof...still a project, pure stacking for the beginning...Pat is really close, the landing off the lip mantle is horrible though...

Crazy what lurks out there, and continues to be discovered...glad folks were able to hang after the bash, a great extended time in the woods for sure.

Cheers!
Tom

Lyddie crushing it

2010-08-22T00:21:00.000-07:00