Scarpa Booster S Shoe Review - The steep climbing weapon

There there is a new pair of kicks in the Scarpa arsenal that I think more people will really sink their feet into more than the others- that is the Booster S.  I really wanted to get a good feel for this shoe because at first glance it looks a lot like the Boostic and Instinct VS had a baby.  But au contraire this shoe is a very different beast.  This shoe is a precision steep climbing weapon and it is not just a softer version of the Boostic like others have claimed it to be- the shaping and feel are most certainly different between the two shoes.  Sizing is consistent between both shoes- which which for me is a 40.5.  The break in time was much less as I assumed it would be with the Booster S than with the Boostic.

Scarpa Booster S

Shape
It looks very similar to the Boostic at least in appearance but if you put the two right next to each other you will notice that they are very different.  The shape of the Booster S is much more downturned for super precise foot placements than the somewhat flat-footed Boostic. So while the Booster S is indeed softer than the Boostic, it also has a completely different construction and shape.  Check out these side by side photos comparing each shoe.

Toe compare
Booster S (left) Boostic (right)

Sole Comparison
 Booster S (bottom) Boostic (top) 

Downturn Comparison
Boostic (right)  Booster S (left)
Notice how much more aggressive the Booster S is!

Top down Comparison
Booster S (top)  Boostic (bottom)
Notice again how aggressive the Booster S is, because it is so aggressive it does not sit flat like the Boostic on a flat surface.

Rubber
The next major thing that is the difference is the rubber in these shoes.  The Booster S uses the super sticky and softer Vibram XS Grip 2 which is insanely sticky and long lasting as well.  The first time I tried this shoe on in the gym I immediately noticed the huge difference between this rubber and the XS Edge which the Boostic uses.  It is much softer smears and definitely sticks better.  It does deform a little bit more when doing serious edging and slab work compared to the XS Edge Rubber on the Boostic but it sticks better - that is the trade off.  We will get more into that later.

Closure System
The closure system is virtually the same between each shoe.  The alternating Velcro closure really keeps the shoe tight and stable with no weird bunching or pressure points even for me I have a very high instep and arch.

Rand System
This shoe has a very interesting active rand system called the Tri-Tension system that is combined with a thin support ribbon that is basically a very minimalist sole.  This gives a ton of power too the forefoot and toe with also just enough stiffness for extra stability while edging.  The Tri-tension system appears to be a blend of between the V-tension the Boostic uses and the X-Tension that the Stix uses.  Despite my looking into it I have yet to figure out how the tension in this system works.  All I know it creates a rare blend of shoe that is both slipper like and stiff in the toe.

For those with questions on what exactly Active Randing the insert below is directly from Scarpa regarding the subject.

SCARPA Active Randing Principles  

·         Working by hand, Italian craftsmen skilfully pre-stretch special shapes of die-cut rubber; these become our Active Rands and form an integral part of the shoes construction.

·         This specialized process effectively spring loads the shoe, with elasticity which is then stored as energy within its structure.

·         Each different shoe cradles the foot in its own way. This provides strategic support, allows dynamic adaptation, and promotes natural movement of the foot.

·         The result is an active environment where the pre-generated power can be intelligently distributed onto footholds, where it is applied with precision.

·         Active Randing is designed by Heinz Mariacher exclusively for SCARPA

Heel
The heel in this shoe feels very similar to the Boostic.  It does have a softer more flexible feel (likely do to the difference in rand construction)  for me at least so there is a bit more sensitivity for accurate placements.

Heel Compare
Booster S (left)  Boostic (right)

Pros
Down turned excellent on steeps
Vibram XS Grip 2 is a super sticky rubber smears very well
Sensitive
Good indoor and outdoor
Very Comfortable once broken in

Cons
Shoe can be painful in cracks because it is pretty soft and downturned
Durability maybe an issue.  I have had some delaming occur on the toecap due to toe hooking.
Vibram XS Grip 2 might not be as durable and long lasting as the XS Edge.

Conclusion
I really really like the Booster S for bouldering, gym climbing and sport climbing.  It can do just about everything well.  However on long routes or where any toe jamming is involved I prefer the more supportive Boostic.  Both are superior shoes and well worth a try.

Topping out the Eleven Star with the Booster S

L8er,
podenbeck

Friction Labs Chalk Review (part 1 of 2)

Every once in a while we review/recommend a product.  Typically it's because we find value in that product.  This review is no different...if you haven't heard about Friction Labs and their specially formulated chalk, now is the time.

If you think all chalk is essentially the same you're in for a surprise. Depending on the ratio, what is actually in the chalk can widely vary.  The science behind it: Friction Labs' chalk uses a higher ratio of Magnesium Carbonate than any other company. Lesser brands cut their chalk with more Calcium Carbonate, making for a slipperier product when moisture becomes present.  Have you ever chalked up but instead of it drying your hands, they feel slimy? That's the Calcium Carbonate working against you.

I first experienced the Friction Labs chalk at this year's Butte Bouldering Bash; at which they graciously supplied all the competitors with samples of their chalk.  Folks were psyched, and I noticed that people were coming back around to see if they could get a second sample...we put some extras out during the raffle and unsurprisingly they went pretty quick.

BBB2014 fueled by Friction Labs 

After the Bash, we felt a critical look at the chalk would be ideal. With the winter months approaching we thought that testing may have to be limited to a science fair-esque approach, and experiences in the gym.  The winter proved to be much less threatening than imagined, and I found myself testing the chalk where it really matters to me.  Outside - exploring new stone.

Make every try count

My main type of climbing is bouldering, and more specifically, developing new problems and areas. Over the past 10 years while wandering the Boulder Batholith, my responsibilities have grown and my life changed and evolved. The time I can allot myself these days seems to be more and more limited, making each trip into the woods a time to strive to perform my very best.

Snow on the ground, dry hands on the winter stone

When you only have a couple days you can get out a month, and limited tries on your project; you take every step possible to make those attempts count.  Friction Labs is the chalk I'm reaching for - I can tell it works better…you wouldn't try your project in approach shoes, so why would you use a lesser chalk?

Every factor counts. Kevin prepping for a new highball arete project deep in the Benchlands.  Chalk of choice? Friction Labs

There are 3 blends available, Bam Bam(super chunky), Gorilla Grip (chunky) & Unicorn Dust (fine).  While preferences seemed to vary among our testers, I personally found the Bam Bam to be the blend I liked the most - mainly because I preferred block chalk prior to these tests.  Usually it was the Metolius block chalk...but you can literally feel the difference...and I'm not going back. I secretly switched Odenbeck's chalk out with another brand to see if he'd notice - one dip into my bag and he could tell something wasn't right...he gave me a look and went to find the Friction Labs chalk.

And while there is some fancy science stuff involved, what it translates to is that this chalk seems to cover my mitts better, and keeps them drier for longer.  Could this be the Boreal Firé of the chalk world? The new innovation that makes other chalk companies step back and reassess thier own product?  Also, let’s consider that for a moment…what other chalk companies?  This product is what Friction Labs does, it’s not just an accessory or an afterthought of a larger brand, it’s the lifeblood of their company.

I can feel the difference; and after a few months of testing I’m convinced it’s not a placebo...my hands stay drier and that’s that.  Friction Labs is for me.

Stay tuned for part 2 where we harness our 4th grade science fair skills and bring you some additional testing and thoughts.

Cheers!

So good it hurts... Scarpa Instinct VS Review

Scarpa Instinct VS

Scarpa continues to pull out all the stops with their new shoes.  Last year I was introduced to the Scarpa Boostic and was extremely impressed with the fit and versatility of the shoe.  So much so that I decided to do a review on them.  After making the switch to Scarpa from my other standbys of Five Ten and La Sportiva I heard through the grapevine that Scarpa was releasing another slipper fo 2013.  I waited not so patiently for them to be available and quickly ordered a pair pretty much site unseen in the same size as the Boostic 40.5.   Why buy another shoe?  1) I liked the Boostic so much.  2) Increase the longevity of the shoe two shoes last longer than one.  3) I also thought that the Boostic was not super good in cracks the Instinct VS looked more low profile in the toe so it made sense to try it.

First Impression:

Soon they arrived and I did the my tried and true exercise of putting them on and stretching them out.  Which usually entails wearing them around the house for 15 minutes- then off for 15.  My first impression was damn these shoes are tight!  I compared the lengths of my Boostics to the Instinct VS and they were exactly the same as was the width.  The discomfort appeared to be coming from 2 things.  #1 there is a lot more rubber on the top of the Instinct VS so the forefoot does not appear to stretch as easy it also has some additional stitching in the forefoot to reduce stretch. #2 is the orange rand which just forces your toes into more of a precise power position.  After breaking them in I finally got to climb on them in the gym.  These shoes shine on the steeps.  I normally am very bad with toe hooks, bicycles and the like- these are the first shoe that I have ever worn that honestly made up for my poor roof footwork.  These shoes are steep climbing weapons!

Basic
Precise down-turned toe slipper with a single strap Velcro closure for additional security for heel hooking.  This shoe essentially blends the sensitivity of a slipper with the exact precision of a lace up.

Rubber
The Instinct VS uses the Vibram XS Edge just like the Boostic.  My experience with this rubber is that XS Edge is very durable and versatile.  This shoe also has a healthy dose of rubber over the whole forefoot for toe scumming and other trickery.

Closure System
This shoe for all intensive purposes is a slipper but with a single Velcro strap- which is a really nice especially for heel security.  Like all precision slippers it is difficult to get on but easy to get off.

The Heel
The heel in this shoe has rubber all the way around.  And is a very powerful heel hooker.  Even though I stated in the Boostic review that it was the best hooker I have ever had.  Well the Instinct VS is even better! More rubber and more precision what else could you ask for.

Rand System
This shoe uses the Bi Tension System.  You may also notice that the forefoot and heel are actually separate pieces of rubber which allows them to independently articulate.  This gives the shoe a better all around range from precise toe pointing to smears.

Performance
This shoe is good at many things.  It really excels at steep bouldering and indoor climbing.  I have also used it on long alpine climbs and was impressed with its crack climbing capabilities though it is painful.

1. Awesome roof climbing shoe
2. Pretty good at edging but nowhere as good as the Boostic
3. Heel is really really good.  Though I thought the Boostic was best this is probably better and it has more rubber than the Boostic.
4. Slabs yes it can climb them but ohh man do your toes hurt.  Boostic is way better here.
5. Cracks especially hands to fingers this shoe in my opinion is great in those sizes and it is not as painful as the Boostic.  If you went a size or half size up on these they would be really good crack shoes.

Pros:

Precise

Good in the steeps

Pretty good in cracks

Great heel

Cons:

Uber painful break in period

Expensive

Final Thoughts:
This is an excellent shoe.  But it is truly a niche shoe.  If you are looking for a training shoe, something for very steep routes or bouldering or a pretty good crack slipper it is hard to beat.  If you are looking for a technical edging shoe, the Boostic will blow it away; the Boostic is an edging machine!  Simply put- I have been using the Instinct VS for gym climbing, working routes or problems and the Boostic has been my proverbial "ace in the whole" AKA my go to send shoe.

L8ers,
podenbeck

Dolomite Climbing Bags: Basic Bouldering Bag Review

Bouldering is viewed by many as climbing in its purest and simplest form. Just you and the rock...well that and everything you carry with you.

For some the solution is to just stuff it all into the pad...creating a potential for a trail of gear to pick up on your way out, or a sprawling mess once you set up at the blocs. For others, a bouldering bag becomes a necessity to keep yourself organized.

Dolomite Climbing Bags is a small outfit based in Seattle, WA specializing in up-cycled bags. They were kind enough to send along the Basic Bouldering Bag for our review, not to mention they generously donated to the 3rd Annual Butte Bouldering Bash.

Some thoughts after a winter season of outdoor bouldering with the Dolomite Basic Bouldering Bag as my primary bouldering bag:

The bag is in the style of a messenger/saddle bag, with the ability to open up and lie flat in the bouldering pad. It's somewhat comparable to the Metolius Bouldering Bag in style.

Outside pockets holding chalkpot, shoes & water bottle

The re-purposed fabric initially feels stiff but burly...and the stiffness isn't necessarily bad, just different. The toughness of the fabric is great, especially among the sharp rocks of the Boulder Batholith. I also really like the idea of using re-purposed(up-cycled) marketing banners and cordura. Each bag is unique and living a second life.

The bag features two large zippered compartments and pockets in front for quick access. The outside pockets are nice to be able to quickly tuck away your shoes or grab a water bottle, which is neatly stored and not isn't rolling off somewhere. Storage wise - there is ample space to fit shoes, water, chalk, brushes, and food with room to spare. There is also a small inner pocket along with a key keeper for small items, which I find very useful as I'm always convinced I *just* lost my keys.

I dig the style and aesthetics of the bag, and it's cool having a choice on fabric patterns, I ended up with some glow in the dark accents...a pretty cool addition. The construction is bomber as well, with sturdy stitches and burly zippers, overall it feels solid. As a minor quibble, I'd like the see the should-strap connection just as burly, but currently it seems to be holding up just fine.

I mainly used this bag in conjunction with a bouldering pad, Though bag also carries nicely in the messenger bag configuration with a shoulder strap, making it easy to go from the boulders to the gym with the same bag.  While it would work for a scouting mission, a day exploring without a pad I might opt for a traditional style backpack.

I put this bag through some freeze-thaw torture, often times it would end up on the porch, garage, or left in the rig. I was nervous about the material becoming brittle, but so far the material seems just as solid as when I initially picked it up. In fact, there is very little, if any, wear to the fabric...this stuff is burly!  The fabric also remains rather stiff...but over time I have gotten used to the 'feel' of the bag, and the stiffness doesn't seem to be an issue, it's just a bit different.

Pros:
Durable up-cycled fabric
Made in the USA
Solidly made
Custom color choices
Fits nicely into a bouldering pad
Works great as a gym bag

Cons:
Plastic buckles
Not a great option for long hikes without a pad.


Overall, if you're looking into picking up a bouldering bag, this is a great option. A quality product, utilizing up-cycling practices, and based in the USA.

Cheers,
Tom

Organic Slider Pad Review

Almost a year ago I picked up the Slider Pad from Organic. 

                                            

First, all I can say is I wished I picked one up sooner!  This light 1" thick half sized pad slides easily into most standard (and all Organic) bouldering pads, with room to spare.  Over the last year I have found it very useful in various bouldering situations.

Slider Pad protecting the opening moves of a project in the Benchlands

It's been working great for sit starts, low starts, and is nice to have in scenarios where a full pad could be considered unnecessary but some protection would be helpful. This pad also excels with low balls, invert offwidths and other problems with 'dab potential'.  

Opting for a slider pad over a normal pad to avoid the dab potential...

The construction is bomber, as is the fabric. It has three handles which makes it easy to move and adjust. They can also be used to fix the pad in position if needed. It would be nice to see a fourth handle added, which would aid in fixing...it would also create some nice options for attaching makeshift shoulder straps, in case you were thinking about taking the pad out solo on an ultralight circuit.

I've used it quite a bit as a 'luxury seat' for shoeing up... and the carpeted top is nice for wiping you feet, I was concerned it would pick up pine needles etc, but it hasn't seemed to be a debris magnet either...WIN!

Chasing Windmills, Slider Pad patching seams

It also works nice for 'patching' seams between pads and leveling out landings...in fact, every time I bring the Slider Pad with me, it sees usage.

Price-wise it's a great deal, clocking in at $30! The only sting is the shipping price, a bit high, but  fair considering it's a larger item...so if you're thinking of picking one up, perhaps get one of your bouldering partners to get one at the same time, and save on shipping!

Overall, this is a great pad to pick up. After adding it to my bouldering kit, it became an often used item, and I've opted to take it with me every time since I've picked it up.

Bottom line: a solid additional pad for the arsenal.

Cheers!

Tom Kingsbury

If the shoe fits... Scarpa Boostic Review

Scarpa Boostic

I haven't really figured out why but there are few things that I geek out on more than climbing shoes.  This is my 18th season climbing- yes I am old and should be climbing a lot harder than I do but that is besides the point. I have scrunched my feet into just about everything out there and have the goblin feet to prove it.  Most of this scrunching is due to my wide foot and most climbing shoes these days are geared for narrow feet and they appear to be getting even more narrow- I guess to make them more precise.  I have been a loyal La Sportiva user for years and have worn many a shoe from them; Enduro, Kaukulator, Viper, Syncro, Mythos, Mistral, Venom, Muira and Muira VS.  I have also used Five Ten Shoes; Moccasym, Anasazi Velcro, Anasazi Slipper and recently Blackwings and even Boreal Vectors at one point. So I have been around the block in terms of at least two major brands.

Always in the background for me were Scarpa shoes.  I have been continually impressed with the quality and materials but the fit was never quite right- then I tried on the Boostic.  I was instantly amazed at how comfortable they were in the toe box.  How could this be?  Scarpas have never fit me.  Closer inspection revealed that the last on this shoe remained wider in the forefoot then previous Scarpa models but more importantly the shoe does not loose any precision- but that my friends is just the beginning.

History
Turns out that the master shoe designer Heinz Mariacher moved from La Sportiva to Scarpa in 2006.  Heinz had already been at the forefront of climbing shoe design for decades.  While at La Sportiva, Mariacher assisted in developing the Mythos, Muira and Testarossa to name a few.  These beloved shoes are still in the current La Sportiva line up today.  Mariacher has been changing the basic way of thinking from "how to make your feet work with climbing shoes" to "how to make climbing shoes work with your feet."  Since Maraicher's move to Scarpa they certainly have ramped up their climbing shoe line and the Boostic is his new high end masterpiece.

Lets give these bad boys a closer look...

Basic
This shoe is a slightly downturned Velcro slipper with a Lorica/suede upper.  The slight downturned shape is one of the keys to this shoe giving it a combination of power and versatility.

Rubber
The Boostic uses the XS Edge from Vibram rubber.  I have found this to be a great rubber and am very familiar with it since this is the same rubber that is on the Muira and Muira VS.  Yes, it is not as quite sticky as some of the Five Ten offerings, like Stealth, but in my opinion and experience this rubber is more durable, does not chip and holds its form better.  A nice edition to these shoes is soft rubber over the toe box for toe hooks and scumming.

Velcro Closure and Elastic
Scarpa calls this system "floating closure straps" this is done differently than any other shoe that I have put on.  It is sort of like the La Sportiva Solution with the opposing curve closure.  The flaps of leather are situated in such a way that they "float" above your foot allowing the shoe to accommodate different types of feet.  The system also includes an elastic sock that spans the gap between and beneath the Velcro closures.  This sock drastically reduces pressure points and it has a small tab on it that enables you to pull the elastic sock up to the proper location. This sock is more breathable than others that I have tried.  Especially the old La Sportiva Mistral which used neoprene- your foot would sweat like no other on a hot day in that shoe.  I have found this closure is very secure and comfortable over the top of the foot and provides a vacuum like seal.  This system is much more comfortable than some Velcro shoes like the Anasazi Velcro, Blackwing and Muira VS which have a more traditional Velcro closure.

The Heel
This has always been something difficult for me to fit as well because I also have a pretty narrow heel.  Gotta love that feeling when your heel is slowly sliding out of a shoe on a desperate heel hook.  The heel on this shoe fits very well though the break in period was a little painful for me.  Despite the initial break in period this shoe also heel hooks like a pro.  I had worked a problem for a long time that had a strange heel hook and got no where on it.  The heel in this shoe is very sticky and precise for a Velcro slipper and gave me that extra little bit to finally send.

Performance
Simply put this shoe crushes everything I have been able to throw at it so far; indoor, limestone, granite bouldering even a little crack climbing.  I have been very impressed with three things specifically about this shoe.

1. It is an edging machine.   I was able to stand on very small holds with confidence. The edging power of this shoe from vertical to overhanging it really is precise and powerful.  The shoe also backsteps very well.
2. Slabs? despite this shoe's downturned-ness it slab climbs like a champ.  This was quite surprising to me. On a recent bouldering session I was able to send a difficult slab problem and even a tricky no hands slab.
3. Heel hooking- this is by far the best heel hooking slipper that I have used.

Comparison and Sizing
This shoe reminds me of a wider version of the Muira VS.  It climbs similar but is my opinion is more precise and far more comfortable for the shape of my foot and the closure system is better.  I wear a 39.5 EU in most La Sportiva shoes and I was surprised when the 40.5 EU Boostic was the same length so that is the size I went with.  After a little measuring a Blackwing in a 9 US is also about the same length.  There is also the obvious comparison between the Solution and the Boostic.  My foot just does not jive with a Solution again because the shoe is so narrow.  The Solution has a much more of a down turned toe so it may be a better choice for those who are always on steeper terrain.

Pros:
Versatile
Precise
Well made
Excellent fit for wider feet

Cons:
Heel is painful at first
I question the durability of the attachment of the leather tab on the elastic sock
Expensive

All in all this is a versatile powerhouse of a shoe and I highly recommend them.

I recently reviewed the Booster S.  http://www.montanabouldering.com/2015/05/the-steep-climbing-weapon-scarpa.html  If you are interested in something that is softer and built more for the steeps.  This Booster S might be worth checking out.

L8ers,
Patrick