Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Getting Dominated in the Eastern Isos

Dominic's belated birthday bash was this past weekend- Happy Birthday to him!  This annual swaray includes the main ingredients of beer, camping, various projectiles and of course a little bouldering.

Dom on a Birthday Send - DBB - Eastern Isos
photo: Jeremy Champion

Last year the fittingly named Dom's Birthday Boulder (DBB) was discovered near the campsite.  This is a beauty of a block with some fun problems on it.  After everyone from the various locations convened at the campsite we all headed down to this boulder for the start of a great day.

Rose on Dominator Slab - DBB - Eastern Isaos
photo: Jeremy Champion

Fruh made quick work of the difficult line up the middle of DBB recalling it from last year- "must have had the one stored in the memory banks."  This crimp nasty of a line destroys the tips, you only get a couple goes on it before you are bleeding.

 Fruh on the send sequence... it helps to be like Gumby
photos: Jeremy Champion

Tom warming up on the DBB
photo: Jeremy Champion

It was first believed that the only boulder in this area worth climbing on was the DBB, but it turns out that is not the case.  Hidden in the Juniper were about 10 more boulders within 100 yds, some with some very interesting features, all of them with nice flat landings- especially after a little light landscaping.

Landing Clear!
photo: Jeremy Champion
Some new fun moderates
photo: Katie Champion

Refractive Index - Eastern Isos
photo: Jeremy Champion

Truly a great time was had by all.  Especially Dom!

photo: Jeremy Champion

You can check out more photos by Jeremy @ http://jeremychampionphoto.com/

Monday, April 22, 2013

Lunar Phases

Lunar Phases - Upper Isos

Saturday, we took Cole on his first tour of the Isos and I do not think he was disappointed.  Tom somehow seems to have a pretty good mental picture of where all of the sub-zones are in the Isos. I however still am working on getting my bearings here and am constantly feeling lost while even on the smallest tour- the place is a maze.  Even with all of the days we have spent in here surprises keep popping up.  We actually discovered a small block literally 50 yds from one of the main parking areas.  After some scrubbing we were able to put four new problems on it - all with interesting moves.  This little block is a great addition to the area especially for a warm up or late night session.

High Heel Boys - Low Spark Boulder - Lower Isos

High Heel Boys - Low Spark Boulder -  Lower Isos

High Heel Boys - Low Spark Boulder - Lower Isos

Saturday's weather was variable with wind, grapple and snow flurries blowing through throughout the day. Because of the weather we found ourselves walking around more than normal.  We made a walking tour through most of the main zones with Cole showing him the vastness that is the Isos.  Cole onsighted  the classic invert (Tom you are gonna have to help me out with the name of this one). Tom also sent it in one go - and very smoothly I might add.

Ahh the maze of the Batholith

We ambled our way North and found ourselves at the Upper Isos, the undisputed crown jewels of the of the area.  On the more eastern block of the two there is an overhanging scoop/crescent feature.  I had looked at this feature in the past and quickly decided it was way too hard and way too scary.  After some work I figuring out how to do some of the opening moves which include a huge gaston.  I then found myself getting above the scoop feature.  After that it seemed possible. From a small left crimp I fell going for the final deadpoint.  Not really where I wanted to fall- especially only with three pads (thanks Tom and Cole for the stellar spots).  On the next go I was somehow able to stick the final heady deadpoint and top it out.  I was so psyched to dispatch of such an aesthetic and tall line.  I might add that after the send you get on this boulder you get two for the price of one with a 20+ foot 5.10 slab down climb- yeehaw.  I certainly consider Lunar Phases one of the best problems I have done so far in the Batholith - it is simply awesome.  We then switched our efforts to Tom's Project on the west block and got completely shut down.  It will be a day of reckoning when that thing falls...

Cole on Lunar Phases - Upper Isos

Lunar Phases - Upper Isos

Lunar Phases - Upper Isos

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Isos and something special for the Summer

Just another day in the batholith.  Very cool little crag with an amazing looking offwidth.

The Isos maybe one of the best areas that is currently under development in the Batholith.  The area is much more concentrated than previously thought and it holds a variety of problems on great stone.  Tom and I went out to  clear up our understanding of the Lower Isos this weekend.  With a couple new problems going up early in the day specifically on John Titor's Boulder. Follow this link to find out more about John Titor - quite an interesting read if you have the time. Later some weather moved in so we decided to go explore an area that Tom had been looking at on aerials.  Walking in to this locale yielded one of the best finds in the Batholith in recent memory-  a hillside with many featured overhangs and a couple awesome little crags with some excellent route potential.

Walking in Snow White - Bowie Boulder, Lower Isos

A creepy find in the backwoods occasionally happens.  We discovered this beaver tail nestled in a tree miles from any water source.

IBM 5100 - John Titor's Boulder, Lower Isos

Pebble pinch on IBM 5100
Fighting Diamondbacks - John Titor's Boulder, Lower Isos

Let the exploring begin!

A (1 out of 500 featured overhang) in the Batholith? - they do exist can't wait to get on this!

More featured overhangs?

And more overhangs with features?

Find of the day a 50-60' overhanging offwidth

Looks like it is gonna be a busy Summer!


Saturday, April 6, 2013

A new season of Gulching--Rock Resorts

More determined than ever to better his climbing skills, Ladd has committed to doing harder cracks...