Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Sipping Bourbon in the Backroom

Saturday was looking grim, thick skies threatened good temps...but it was unclear how much was haze from the fires to the west. The day turned out well though, a couple short sporadic showers, but all in all a very climbable day.

We headed to the Backroom of the Bourbons, a short hike beyond the Bourbons proper gains the Backroom, still fully stocked. Brady, Ramos, Clay, Whitmore, Zana and 3/4 of the Mojede clan came out and enjoyed the burn of the Bourbons.

Session on a previously established problem

A thin saucer project

"Climbs like a route"

Andrew cruising

Barrel-Chested...a ~10-15' traverse through the squeeze to gain the exit above.

Though the invert seemed to prove to go much easier

I think Ladd had the send of the day though:

He sprinted up the No-hands slab...probably one of the taller problems that Ladd has ticked, didn't even faze him...hopefully he doesn't spray too hard about it at his first day of kindergarten today though! HA! Whadda crusher!


Friday, August 27, 2010

Teasing Out Dad's Hidden Stash in the Northern Bourbons

Here are a few from last Sunday. Worked on the Bachar Traverse in the Bourbons proper for an hour or so...making progress on it, but it still thwarts the send. We then wandered back up to the Northern Bourbons and dicked around to the west (downhill) of Special Reserve and Caligula. Found a few nice cracks and one beautiful face project.

Zana holding onto the start of stellar new proj

Twin cracks: Left is V1, Right is V2/3

Raspberry Boulder with Twin Cracks pictured

Just south of Raspberry Boulder lies this stout little traverse, V4 it seems.

On another climbing note. I sent my long-standing (for me) project in Gallatin Canyon. The second pitch of my route "I am a Wicked Child" has been a battle for me. Last fall the send was in hand when I bumbled the exiting 5.11 crux (onto a shitty flared #3 Camalot)... then it began to snow/rain for the winter. Lots of distractions this summer kept me off it except for a few attempts which saw me falling at the last moves again. Finally pieced it together earlier this week. its a beauty. Off a ledge it punches you in the face with a overhanging 5.12 boulder-problem for 15'. Then 3 hanging corners are negotiated (5.10ish). The last 60' involve typical Gallatin face climbing, including two 5.11 cruxes, protected by an assortment of gear. All in all it goes for 34 meters to the chains and is rated at 5.12.

Cheers and Beers,


Monday, August 23, 2010

Post-Bash climbing

The trailers were parked, folks were hanging out, and we had some days to climb and explore...a recap of some of the post-bash climbing...

Sunday morning after the bash, after a bit of cleaning up, coffee drinking and waking up we headed from the trailer camp out to the backroom of the Bourbons...about a 10 minute walk or so from the regular Bourbons parking. Pat, Justin, Cole and I headed out to show Justin the overhanging crack project - a bad size at a bad angle...seemed like quite the warm up. I felt pretty worked from the day and evening before, but Justin taped up and threw down. Crushed the rig 2nd go, and nearly onsighting the thing...Proud!

Cloud Nine (.13-)
Cloud Nine

Cloud Nine

Cloud Nine

Pat and Cole gave good attempts as well, we also played around on a couple nearby stones...

Cole on the no hands slab

We then headed back to the headquarters, dropped off Cole, picked up Eric and headed out to the Cloven Hoof...a new OW that Pat established early this summer - short and stout. Justin continued to dispatch and onsighted the Cloven Hoof. Strong work for sure!

Cloven Hoof (.12)
Cloven Hoof

Cloven Hoof

Cloven Hoof

Skin donation

We then continued out into the Coyote Flats to mess around on the Corner Project...the day was getting late for Justin as he had to hit the road, but in my couple of attempts I gained a new high point...stemmed back into the corner as it blanks out...just a couple more pure stemming moves to the top...should be an interesting finish.

We said our goodbyes and Justin headed back to WY, hopefully to return sooner than later. Pat, Eric and I loaded up and headed out for an evening session on the new OW/squeeze that Kevin spied a few weeks prior...a quick hike on the CD trail to access a nice small outcropping with a number of interesting lines. Pat roped up and jumped in...the flakes at the bottom of made pro a bit funky, but soon enough he was fiddling in a couple blue bros, a challenge with the flared nature of the line. A really good onsight attempt, but we were forced to continue another day as we were lacking enough tubes...thing is WIDE!

Blue Bro Proj

Blue Bro Proj

I had to head back to Bozeman that evening, but after a couple hours at the office the next day I was back on the road out there. I arrived in the heat of the day on Monday at the trailers...I was nearly met by Pat and Eric who were psyched on a new find. We loaded up pads and gear and headed out to the hillside find. Another great new OW roof...still a project, pure stacking for the beginning...Pat is really close, the landing off the lip mantle is horrible though...

Crazy what lurks out there, and continues to be discovered...glad folks were able to hang after the bash, a great extended time in the woods for sure.


Sunday, August 22, 2010

Friday, August 20, 2010

Butte Bouldering Bash by the (rough)numbers

~145 new problems presented in the Northern Bourbons
~90 different problems climbed by competitors
~50 folks out climbing and having a good time
~40 competitors
~35 new SMCC members!
~30 pads
~15 roaming dogs
~3 fallen projects
~6 states represented (folks from MT, WY, CO, ID, WA & SD!!!)
~80+ burgers and dogs grilled and eaten
~many beers consumed
~more raffle prizes than I could count, with 100% raffle success!

HUGE thanks to:
Homestake Lodge
Northern Lights
Neptune's Brewery
Black Diamond
Five Ten
La Sportiva
Spire Climbing Center
The North Face
Sender Films
Community Health Partners of Bozeman
Lost Horse Climbing Festival
Brett Jessen
Loren Rausch
Vince Close
Brandon Smith
Hannah Arm
Matt Parsons
Conrad Anker
Corey Piersol
and all the other folks who helped volunteer the day of  the fest....Thanks! We couldn't of done it without y'all!

And if you came out, thanks for coming out and supporting the SMCC! It wouldn't have been as successful without you and your psyche! Hopefully we got a chance to meet and chat, and hopefully we'll see you out here in the future!

here's a couple links to various coverage:
Butte Bouldering Bash by Brett Jessen
Frontier Fiesta
Photos from the Bash
A Trip to the Butte Bouldering Bash


Thursday, August 19, 2010

SWMCC Butte Bouldering Bash

Some pics that I managed to snap during the successful and enjoyed festivities in the Northern Bourbons:

Friday, August 13, 2010

Boulder Batholith Bash: details

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to post a link with the location of the Homestake Lodge for those unsure where it is. Exit 233 off of I-90, take FS road 240 (south of the highway, there will also be a sign saying "Homestake Lodge 3") and drive three miles to Homestake Lodge.


We will be having two BBQ/cookouts (one ~12:30 up at the boulders and one ~6pm back at the lodge) we're bringing lots of burgers/dogs/sides...if that doesn't appeal to you, you're welcome to bring your own grillins or sides for yourself, or to share...

There is camping available at the lodge, near the festivities, for $10 a campsite, as well as beds available at the Lodge(not sure on the price on that) or free camping in the surrounding forest service lands.

Hope to see you there!
Tom Kingsbury

Thursday, August 5, 2010

New Nobo's

Craig, Ben and I re-visited an area in the Northern Bourbons that Molly and I had explored a few seasons back. Some pics:

Side view of project--keep in mind that Ben (in red) is 6'7'' tall...

Monday, August 2, 2010

The time draws near....

Less than 2 weeks away from the bash...finishing touches on the guide and final details are becoming clear....things are looking good folks, and I hope to see y'all out there!