Tuesday, April 27, 2010


I pulled into the brewery to meet Dom and Jeremy for an  IPA and a growler fill. It'd been awhile since I'd seen Dom, and it was great to catch up....he just wrapped up a recent job, and it happened to be his birthday; it was time to celebrate...I figured we'd better head out to the trailer and find some new stone, before we started anymore ruckus in town.

We eventually arrived in the Isolated Boulders...the moon lit up the landscape, and Dom's birthday bottle of
Basil Haden lit up our enthusiasm for a night bouldering/exploring mission. The evening was kind to us...we followed a notion I had about a further extension of the Isos, and it proved to be correct. Many moonlight problems were pulled and scoped, and we stumbled back thoroughly excited for the morning.

The next morning we were greeted by Clay. How did I not put it together that the folks camping up the road could be fellow boulderers? Soon we were enjoying an awesome breakfast over at Clay's site, with Scotty, Derrick, and another Tom. We then migrated to the Lower Isolates for a warm up, and so Clay could give the saucer project a go...I think he'd been dwelling on that problem for the week, because he ripped through it the first go for his warm up, I barely sat down to put my shoes on; Nice send Clay!

From there, we played on Japanese Depression and the hand crack to the north of it...

After a bit, the topic of the 'fireman' style spot came into discussion...and explored.

We then headed over towards the new finds from the evening before....

Clay on the FA of Native Express

Another big pebble...

Exploring the possibilities

Another project...

The line to left went though...BTW the overhang in the background is featured, but will be ridiculous...pretty damn cool actually.

We checked out a few more problems in the intimidate area, and then headed back to the camp site for beers and cocktails...Gin-n-tonics after a great bouldering session? These fellas know how to roll!

We barely got into the new stuff that Dom and I had checked out the night before...which makes me very optimistic. Numerous large boulders are out lurking in the Isolated Boulders...and I have a feeling we'll be occupied here for awhile.



Monday, April 26, 2010

Iso weekend finale'

A lot of activity happened over the weekend at the Iso's and surrounding area. I didn't get out much, but the kids and I met Andrew, Zana, and Sam for some pulling during the oft-chilly Sunday afternoon. Some captures of our exploits:

Small pebble, smaller pebbles on face--Lyddie pic

Great kiddie OW--the snow flakes made it "out of condition" :-)

Sit-start arching finger crack--short but superb

Ladd pulling on the most knobulous face I have seen yet in the 'Lith

Last boulder of the day before heading home--I climbed the right/white line on it to top, main face yet to be sent. Great shot by Lyddie.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Deconstructive Weekend

Suckered myself into taking an impromptu three-day weekend in the Batholith and caught a ride with TKing out to the Isolated Boulders on Friday afteroon. Sometimes you just gotta get it. After a short excusion to Butte to grab Tommy's trailer and meet up with Hutch we jammed back across the Divide and headed to the Isolated Zone. A good evening session with Tom and Guy got the stoke going. Soon time was flowing a little slower and I was gone.

I managed to get three solid days of climbing in, wearing my tips into their 'lithness and making sure I could scamper up slab still. I took an amazingly small amount of photos over the course of the weekend, but here is what I could glean out of it.

Saturday started off with coffee and such and a wander into what was to become the "Lower Isolates". The Batholith gives again.

Ron ascending Knobbage Slabbage 5.9

Ron on Knobbage Slabbage

Knobbage Slabbage and Max
Max on Knobbage Slabbage

After a solid afternoon with the crew I was left to myself and a beauty evening in amongst the stones and trees.

Bouldering, Trailer-Livin', Shit is pretty good. Of course with me being a post-modern, wilderness loving hippy I was at first skeptical of this new retro-trailer resurgence. Once enlightened to the benefits I quickly adapted.

Dreams of living in a trailer all summer long and climbing soon invade my thoughts.....damn.
Bouldering Basecamp

The north end of the Highlands
Northern Highlands April 2010

Lower Isos on Saturday evening.
Lower Isolates

By myself for an evening, I quickly light a fire and start bouldering.

I did some volunteer work for the SMCC toiling on some fuels mitigation and landing zone work (yeah, go and put me down for 3 hours). Also, climbed a few tall boys and cleaned-up some starts. Later on Z showed up with a growler of IPA and things were good.

Sunday starts off to perfection. The crew coming out is shaping up just fine. Zana and I take our time in the morning, wander around stumbling upon some SWEET trees and potentially good stone (Isolated West?).

Zana paying the penance for dropped chalk in the Lower Isolates
Zana Getting Ready

Working on the opening moves of the Lower Iso's premier traverse. A really good problem that stretches out for 15 to 20 feet (still a projectile).
Iso Traverse

Damn Wench* on the left and Japanese Depression on the right.
Orange Julius

This next one is a proud line. Sick. At plus 20 feet its solid, positive, and slightly over-hanging. Good V4ish start and then some more solid moves. Got into the upper crack and I'll be back.

This is a beautiful example of some of the new ethic in the 'lith. Ten years ago this would of been bolted and just been another ho-hum three bolt climb to hang-dog up. But at this height and with a good landing it presents a classic test to the seasoned high-baller. Now it seems we can push our standards meanwhile opening our minds and touching something unknown.

If it cannot be climbed un-tethered by the current talent then it will be saved for those who can. Word.

Cannot wait to get back out with a good crew and send this thing.

The Highlander Project


*Originally I called it Orange Julius, but upon further research that name has been aptly applied on other problems namely at J-Tree.

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Monday, April 19, 2010


I can still feel it in my tips as I type this...3 great days worth of bouldering out in the Isolated Boulders.

Things started up Friday when I rolled out with Whitmore to the Desert and met up with Guy...things were bluebird and sunny! We quickly rolled over the hill, nabbed my trailer from Hutch, and pulled it up into the Isolateds...my trailer had yet to rest at such a fine location, old Doug firs complimented the open views of the Highlands stretching east to the Tobacco Roots...the warm air and slight breeze made for a perfect afternoon.

Friday afternoon consisted of working on projects in the main Isolated Boulders with a touch of exploration...tips and tendons were pushed to the limit for the day when Hutch and Ben arrived for an evening session....it didn't stop us from putting in a few more though...Fire, food, stories and libations ensued...I retired to my trailer a fog...

Saturday arrived quickly...I awoke and took a morning walkabout...a bit east from the camping was the telltale sign of potential...I gather the fellas and we went and explored, only to return for our pads and gear minutes later...The Isolated Boulders were growing...We were soon joined by Max, Ron, and Forest...and the enthusiasm led to some great climbing...

That evening I returned to the Boz only to be greeted by the psyche of Kalah wanting to get out the following day. We headed out the next morning, greeted Andrew and Zana, and before I knew it, a large posse of excited boulderers showed up to check out the new goods. My tips and I let them have at the projects while Kalah, Jesse, Amanda and I went off to explore some of the other surrounding, unclimbed potential...after about 8 new problems and a number of new finds we decided to head back to the group and the trailer...and word has it things went equally well back at the projects, with a couple more problems succumbing to the psyche...hopefully we can get some news and pictures from some others.

Some pictures:

Working "Tom's Project"...made some progress too!

Andrew on No Sense V3

Guy cruising up a new one

Ron and Forest on a new tall slab

Max on another tall slab...the arete/prow in the foreground went soon after.

Overall, it was great weekend, and I so happy that so many people are getting out and enjoying the Boulder Batholith!


Wednesday, April 14, 2010


Here is a quick list of some known projects...

They are in no particular order...basically they were ones that quickly sprang to mind...and ones that I didn't have to look too hard to find pictures for. This is by no means a complete list, there are a ton more, and so much more potential if you're willing to look.

Some of y'all might have never heard of some of these zones, but they are all in the central Boulder Batholith(ie Butte, America)....if you wanna check them out, let me know and we'll head out there...

1) Westside Clusters Project

While there are a number of problems yet to be climbed in this area, this one seems to stand out...

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2) Overhanging thin hands at the Bourbons

Out in the 'Backroom', This thing needs to see a send...

3)Taco Chip project, Northern Bourbons

Hard sds to small 'taco chip' crimps

4)Gully project, Brickyard

gets slopey/slappy up high

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5) Snub-nose Mantel Project, Brickyard

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6) Big Scoop, Anomalies

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7) Tom's Project, Isolated Boulders

On the top of my personal project list...lets go get this thing!

8) Andrew's Project, Bourbons

9) The Wormhole, Mile 3 Boulders

10) Druthers super-project

This thing is HARD

Ten seems like a nice round number, so I'll leave it to those...

EDIT: actually lets throw one more in there for good measure...

11) Corner Project, Coyote Flats

Tall, hard, aesthetic, and a good landing...